Grand Finishes: Forum

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Want to share do-it-yourself projects, questions or tips? Join the discussion with Matt and others.

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Don't forget to watch "A CHRISTMAS STORY" at least once on Monday. The little kid that plays Ralphie (with the glasses) has grown up and appears in the recent "The Break Up" with Vince Vauhn and Jennifer Aniston. He plays the husband of Jennifer's character's best friend. HAPPY HOLIDAYS, EVERYONE!!!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, December 23, 2006 at 15:14:11 (EST)

In order to remove the brown gel stain you're going to have to use a paint remover, which may disturb the underlying poly coat also, unfortunely. There are "furniture strippers" available which may do the trick: Howard Restore-a-finish is sold (I believe) at Home Depot. Try that on a small spot first. It may take the stain off only as it's not a full-on paint stripper. Good luck.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, December 23, 2006 at 15:04:08 (EST)

Helen, Those are a LOT of questions about your floor. First off, if indeed there was never a polyurethane on the floor then that is not great news. Polyurethane/varnish is a sealer and protects the wood from aging, discoloring, rotting, etc. In order to restore the wood to it's original glory you're going to probably have to sand off the aged/scratched top layer of the wood to get down to fresh wood. This requires sanding machines (drum and edger) which can be rented but are not an easy first-time do-it yourself project: look for a local floor refinisher or two to get pricing/advice on where to go from here. As far as finishing the new wood, wax can be beautiful but is very high maintenance (compared to a varnish/stain/ and/or poly sealer). The citrus stripper you mentioned is a good chemical-free product.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, December 23, 2006 at 14:56:34 (EST)

I purchased a home with light wood cabinets. The cabinets have a polyurethane finish. The previous owners applied a brown gel stain to the cabinets without sanding prior to the application. The cabinets have some molding and the brown gel stain makes them look dirty. Is there a way to remove the gel stain without stripping the entire surface?
MFEMFE
USA - Saturday, December 23, 2006 at 08:41:28 (EST)

I have a 97 year old house that is build with cypress wood. Interior, exterior and floors. The floor are still beauitful and with no spaces. It looks like their is no polyuratene on them. If their is how do I remove it? What should I use to clean the heavy soiled floors? (Some told me Zep's Cirtus is good) There are also scratch marks in the floors? Should these be lightly sanded? I would also like to re-stain the floor to make its original color richer. And for the finish, could I use a wax instead of polyuratene? If so, what brand of wax? Thank you very much!
Helen Jones
New Orleans, LA USA - Wednesday, December 20, 2006 at 11:15:37 (EST)

Joyce, Clean dried nail polish off of the furniture? Your prognosis is not good. Nail polish (as you may know) is thinned with denatured alchohol. However, you run the risk of marring the surface of the furniture when you try to get it off... even if it was fairly wet. If you haven't already gotten it off I would try gingerly scraping it off first with a razor blade or a knife: something sharp that you can hold/scrape close to the polish patch (so as not to scratch the furniture. This may help getting the bulk of the paint off. Then dab on a bit of alchohol and try to loosen the rest. The problem is that denatured alchohol will probably dullen the surface of your dresser and may actually take its finish off also.
matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, November 29, 2006 at 10:36:11 (EST)

My son put nail polish on my daughters dresser. How can I safely take it off without ruining the finish? Thanks
joyce thomas
geneva , IL USA - Monday, November 20, 2006 at 21:16:43 (EST)

Thanks Matt, I'll have to try that out and see if it works. You had mentioned that if I'm not careful that the baseboards would let the stuff leak down into it, well the ugly tile that's on the floor also goes 6inches up the wall as well, so I don't think that will be a problem, however; will that be a problem if I put down pergo flooring? If I ever get around to getting this done I'll try and get back to you to let you know how it went, and thanks again for the help. Sharon
Sharon
Bulverde, TX USA - Sunday, November 12, 2006 at 23:22:40 (EST)

Sharon, You can pour a floor leveler mix over the floor. There are different brands, but the best one I've used is by Custom Building Products called Level Quik / Self Leveling... you can get it at Home Depot. It comes in 50 lb. bags. What are you talking about, as far as square feet? A bag of this stuff covers approx. 50 square feet at 1/8" thick (or 25 square feet at 1/4" thick). Be sure that all the cracks at the base molding are covered (use masking tape), as this is like cake batter and once you pour it on your area it will seek the lowest point and self-level. If there's a hole/crack in the floor or at the edges then the material will drip right in that and you could loose what you pour! (It's happened to me a couple of times). Get yourself some rubber gloves, a margin trowel as well as a flat trowel and a nice big mixing bucket (a plastic smooth-bottomed trash can works great). You can mix by hand although because of the large amount you might end up using, get yourself a long mixing paddle for the drill. This will save you lots of time and muscle and give you a smoother consistency for the leveler. Follow the directions for water/mixing. I had a Client in New York who lived in a high rise. His second bedroom had been tiled by a previous owner and it was pretty awful: a rounded ceramic bright blue. The prospect of getting all the tile and mortar bed off the floor and then out of the condo and to a dump was just too intimidating. Also it would have changed the level of floor in relation to the rest of the unit. So we self-leveled it using this product. The room was approx. 18' x 15' and it took us about six bags (300 lbs.). They were able to install carpeting over it once we were finished, the next day.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, November 11, 2006 at 16:27:40 (EST)

We bought a house with horrible Saltillo tiles. It looks as if they put the tiles INTO the actual foundation. They are uneven and dirty. I've tried cleaning it but the grout is cement and doesn't come clean. Is there anything I can do with it, other than just taking it all up? I was told there is something that pours over the top and evens things out so I could go over it with laminate....is this true?
Sharon
Bulverde, TX USA - Friday, November 10, 2006 at 16:11:26 (EST)

Brand, Sanding down a tile installation is not a viable option/solution for uneven tiles. I would talk to the installer. What was it installed over? If it's really bad/uneven it may have to come up and re-done (sorry). Even though travertine is a relatively soft marble, it's still stone and there really aren't any tools that could handle smoothing down the surface of this stone... besides, some of stones would vibrate loose anyway. The easiest way would be redoing. If this is something you'd like to do, the sooner the better. Thin-set (mortar adhesive for tile) remains soft for a day or two and continues to cure for weeks after application. Once a month or so has passed the tiles will be increasingly more difficult to remove in one piece. Sorry I couldn't offer better news: keep me posted on what you decide to do.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, November 09, 2006 at 14:01:00 (EST)

I had travertine installed all through my new home and it looks uneven. Can travertine be sanded down?
Brand
Greenwood, SC USA - Friday, November 03, 2006 at 00:39:51 (EST)

Chris, The varnish smell should dissappate as the finish oxidizes/dries completely. That process takes up to two months after application. However, leaving the doors/drawers open should help speed up the process. Also rub some Murphy's Oil Soap into the wood... that should help preserve the sheen as well as get rid of any remaining odor.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, October 29, 2006 at 11:09:42 (EST)

We just bought two pieces of bedroom furniture (wardrobe armoire & dresser) that were recently stained and varnished. We love the pieces, but hate the odor they still carry and we're afraid to put our clothes in them. Is there anything we can do to get rid of that smell?
Chris
Ocean City, MD USA - Saturday, October 21, 2006 at 19:14:10 (EDT)

Randall, As long as the surface of the coated (polyurethaned) wood is dullened and then cleaned, it can be lacquered. Once the pieces are assembled, lightly sand the wood with a 220 grit sandpaper. Make sure there is no loose/chipping of the old finish: take all that off and smooth it out with the sandpaper. Finish by cleaning it with a diluted detergent of TSP (you can buy this in a paint store, or use Spic N Span). Rinse/wipe off any residue. If there are any bare spots then coat with a lacquer primer. Let it dry and start spraying the lacquer finish. Lacquer is very thin and so you will need many coats to achieve total coverage (4-8 coats). If your area is well ventilated (and it should be, as lacquer fumes are dangerous to inhale) then you can recoat every few hours.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, October 20, 2006 at 12:48:43 (EDT)

Karin, I'm not sure I'm following whatz going on with the floor. (Also: sorry it took so long to respond... there's been some spam stuff going on with the forum that we're trying to control!) There is a matte finish poly, although it's essentially the same as the dead flat varnish. I agree that further sanding of one particular plank is not the answer and may create more problems. What about rubbing some wax into the floor? To really get a true uniform sheen on the floor, it may be that you will have to recoat the entire floor. As long as the floor is clean that shouldn't be that difficult. It can be applied with a paint tray and 9" applicator pad.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, October 20, 2006 at 12:40:27 (EDT)

Matt - I am wanting to reuse existing lumber that has been poly coated to build a quilt rack. I want to use spray black lacquer for the new finish. What must be done before applying the lacquer?
Randall TURPIN
sylva, nc USA - Thursday, October 19, 2006 at 10:52:54 (EDT)

Matt, I have sanded down the shiny plank but the darn thing is still shiny, even without any poly or varnish. I can't figure out what to do next, I'm not sure the Dead Flat varnish will cut the natural shine. Out of curiosity, is there a "matte" finish that will actually dull the wood? I'm afraid if I keep sanding the piece I will need a full repair to replace it as it will be lower than the others..........lol.
karin
temecula, USA - Monday, October 02, 2006 at 16:52:09 (EDT)

Janis, The only way to lighten already stained (sealed) wood is to strip it down and restain and/or reseal. I had a similar ceiling in a house in the Russian River area: it was fir that had been put up in the 30s and looked very pretty but was too dark. The beams were painted white. Working over your head, especially with paint stripper or heat guns is difficult to say the least. We ended up putting a new ceiling of clear redwood over the old fir and, since the beams still showed, stripped the paint off them (since there were only a couple). So anyway: it can be done (stripping it down) but it is difficult. Trying to stain/bleach sealed wood will only yield a mottled, darker look.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, September 25, 2006 at 15:52:50 (EDT)

Abby, As far as who can do this for you? A carpenter would be the best place to start, as he/she works with wood. Maybe that person can refer you to someone who can help (if he/she can't). They will also be able to give you an idea of cost when they walk through it with you. Ask friends, coworkers for references for carpenters/local contractors. When you call for an in-home estimate, be specific but not too descriptive: IE. "I've got a large family room filled with shelving of various woods and would like to have the room refinished (stained/sealed) to look the same." Too much info sometimes scares off potentially good workers. As far as cost, only someone seeing your place can give you an idea: it will all depend on how much has to be stripped to be refinished (all of it may have to be, but may not). Unfortunately you can't stain over a stained/sealed wood surface. It will look mottled and kind of yucky and then you'll have even more stuff that will have to be stripped off.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, September 25, 2006 at 15:47:16 (EDT)

Dan, Hope its not too late to respond to your basement question! Is the wainscoting you are putting up on the lower half of the wall in pieces: if so, how big? In my book on CARPENTRY I have a whole chapter on installing wainscoting panels. The main part of the panel can be installed with panel/construction adhesive. You can use this method also if the wainscot panels are already trimmed. The concrete walls should be clean and dry first. Since the adhesive doesn't dry immediately, you'll want something to hold the panels in place while the glue hardens. Masonry spikes or nails should do the trick. You won't need a lot per panel: maybe two or three. As long as the panel is fastened in place and not moving. Applying the construction adhesive from a tube, sqeeze squiggly lines on the back of the panel first and be sure that enough of the glue will be touching the wall. Then put the panel in place (shims, if needed, and level) and then pilot the holes where you intent to drive the spike through (to avoid splitting the wood). If you have a lot of wall to cover (and wainscoting to put up), consider renting an air "gun" concrete nailer. They are compact, can shoot one nail at a time with a cap, and though loud, are very precise. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, September 25, 2006 at 15:40:15 (EDT)

Marge, I'm so glad to hear that you're happy with your stairs. It also sounds like it's been pretty gratifying to have been able to accomplish it YOURSELF. Thanks so much for letting me know.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, September 24, 2006 at 18:31:58 (EDT)

Thanks for your earlier advice! It worked great. The person doing our remodel said it would look amaturish and bad if we tried to hand paint and stain our new stairs and stair spindles. You advised differently and we saved a bundle doing it ourselves and it looks BETTER than my daughters that was done "professionally". WE took your advise about how and what to use, we steel-wooled in between each coat and while it took a lot of time and effort it was not a hard job and we are so happy we did it. It looks fabulous. You asked for feeback...here it is. We are grateful for your advice, many thanks.
Marge
OR USA - Sunday, September 24, 2006 at 11:05:44 (EDT)

I have beautiful vaulted stained dark wood ceilings in my living room- is there any way to lighten up or bleach the wood? Most everyone in the neighborhood has just painted over them in white, which I don't want to do. I love the wood, its the charm of the house- only the stain is too dark. Any tips or advice?
Janis
Martinez, Ca USA - Friday, September 22, 2006 at 10:05:52 (EDT)

Dear Matt: I have lots of woodwork in my living room-wall to wall oak breakfront/bookshelves, oak panelling, beams, trim, doors etc. Unfortunately, the panelling and beams are stained different colors than the breakfront and the frenchdoors and trim. How would I find a professional that can stain these all the same color? What would something like this cost? How long does this take? (the room is 15x30) Could it just be overstained a darker color with a gel stain? Help!
Abby Borg
Santa Cruz, CA USA - Wednesday, September 13, 2006 at 01:54:46 (EDT)

I am finishing my basement and am putting Brick face on the top portion of the Cement Wall but want to put wainscoting on the bottom. How would I make the wainscoting adhere to the cement?
Dan
Chicago, IL USA - Tuesday, September 12, 2006 at 16:34:37 (EDT)

Karin, You're correct: Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish. I used the water-based product: it was odor-free, not messy, and sealed the redwood beautifully. Good luck!
Matt Nikitas
San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, September 12, 2006 at 12:45:09 (EDT)

Matt, would that happen to be Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish? I can't find anything in the Benjamin Moore line that fits that name. Thanks again!
karin
USA - Monday, September 11, 2006 at 23:02:18 (EDT)

Karin, Sanding/steelwooling shouldn't make the patch (once sealed) look shiny... it actually does the opposite (tend to make it look duller). There is most certainly a flat polyurethane available. We sealed our clear redwood ceiling with a flat finish so that it looks very natural. It was by Benjamin Moore I think and called "Dead Flat Varnish". Good luck getting that spot looking like the rest of floor: let me know if you have success!
Matt Nikitas
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, September 09, 2006 at 20:07:29 (EDT)

Matt: I have over 2,000 sq ft in beechwood flooring and I prefer the flat finish anyway, so I'd like to fix this "bandaid" looking piece.....lol. I am not sure as to why the flat poly shines, perhaps I over steel wooled the floor giving it a shine in itself? I thought about re-sanding the piece and trying to leave it dull looking, then applying the poly. Does poly come in a matte finish also? Supposedly the poly given to me by the flooring store is the same one that Junkers uses on the flat beechwood, but maybe that's incorrect?
karin
ca USA - Saturday, September 09, 2006 at 12:00:13 (EDT)

Karin, It sounds as if you are going about your repair in a really careful and painstaking process. You say that the original floor is flat and that even though you finished with a flat clear-coat, that it looks shiny (against the existing flat finish on the floorboards)? I don't understand why the flat finish appears shiny. New varnish/polyurethane, regardless of sheen, does dullen over time (weeks after application) as it cures. Still the flat should look somewhat flat right away. If the disparity doesn't dissappear then the best way to remedy this would be to clear-coat the entire floor and give it a uniformity. As long as it is clean and dry, poly can be applied over a large area easily with a paint applicator pad (9" pad) and a paint tray. The pad will help spread the coat evenly. Let me know what you do.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, September 02, 2006 at 15:05:21 (EDT)

Vicki, Check out the paint department at Home Depot, Lowe's, or your local paint store: there's all kinds of one, two step products available today that will give you that distressed look!
Matt
San FRANCISCO, CA USA - Thursday, August 31, 2006 at 17:01:51 (EDT)

Hello, I have a flat beechwood Junkers floor. I am rapairing some spots in the finish by taping off each length of wood so I can work on it specifically. I first finely sanded it down a little, then steel wooled it then put a coat of flat polyurethane on it. Now it's shiny and the rest of the floor is flat. How can I fix that now?
karin
temecula, ca USA - Wednesday, August 30, 2006 at 19:15:17 (EDT)

How do I paint a piece of furniture to make it look old/chipped and distressed?
Vickie
Tampa, Florida USA - Sunday, August 20, 2006 at 22:57:23 (EDT)

Terry, You can paint accoustical ceilings, most of the time it goes pretty smoothly. Latex primer and latex paint will work well in this application. The key is to use a thick roller sleeve, one with a 3/4" nap, and to always have a lot of paint on the sleeve when you apply it (don't try to push a dry roller around). What may happen (if the ceiling has never been painted and/or it is very dry) is that some of the ceiling may come off as you roll on the primer. It will probably just be little spots here and there: keep going and don't worry that your roller sleeve gets a bit gunked up with ceiling pieces. Figure on having one for the primer and a fresh one for the paint. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, August 10, 2006 at 10:45:30 (EDT)

I have just moved into a preowned home that has popcorn accoutical ceilings. The previous owner was a heavy,heavy smoker. I have two choices .... remove the popcorn or seal and paint over the existing Popcorn. if I paint over the popcorn,can it be rolled if so do I need a sealer then latex paint? Your recommendation?
Terry
Hot Springs Village , AR USA - Tuesday, August 08, 2006 at 19:51:27 (EDT)

Matt, thanks! The floor appears to be sealed but will check, no moisture problems. Will check with home depot and e you before and after pics. My son is setting up a recording studio in the area, so we are undertaking a major project with electrical and lighting as well..wish me luck (lots of it)
Jesse
Windsor, CA USA - Saturday, July 29, 2006 at 13:40:40 (EDT)

Matt, Thanks for your advise. I went ahead with a product that was labeled a plastic mastique for roofing which was waterproof and heat resistant. We had rains today and there were no leaks. My only concern is that it remains soft to the touch and if the seals receive any foot traffic, they might be pushed around and compromise the seal. Of course, I realize that the pliability of the product allows it to contract and expand and that's a good thing, but I was hoping for harder surface that we wouldn't need to be as concerned about. Is there anything we might do to seal the sealant in order to give it better protection against foot traffic? Or should we just leave it be and keep catch basins in place "in case"?Again, truly appreciate the advise and we have plenty of product left over to patch and fill as needed if this is simply the way it has to be. Have a good weekend. Cheers!...Jack
Jack
NY, NY USA - Friday, July 28, 2006 at 21:13:41 (EDT)

Jesse,I've had very little experience sealing concrete or cement floors. When we have done it we're talking about a garage floor. Anyhow, the problem with concrete is usually moisture. Is there evidence of any "sweating" on the floor? Is it completely unsealed? Home Depot or a local paint store should be able to steer you towards a good sealer/primer for the concrete. Let the saleperson know that you're going to follow with a latex coat after the primer. Once sealed then you should be able to do any kind of water-based treatment you'd like. Afterwards, what about sealing it with a clearcoat of urethane (water-based poly)? Several coats and allowed to cure properly should allow for a durable enough surface. Any other thoughts out there?
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, July 28, 2006 at 15:27:06 (EDT)

I should also tell you that I am an faux artist, when it comes to walls. so my questions is how do I prep the cement floors and can I use a regular latex paint and how do I seal it for minimal traffic use (only foot traffic, no cars)???
Jesse
Windsor, CA USA - Friday, July 28, 2006 at 12:04:25 (EDT)

My son has a plain interior concrete floor which we would like to do a faux finish on....help...what type of paint do we use and where do we start?
Jesse
Windsor, CA USA - Thursday, July 27, 2006 at 14:29:25 (EDT)

Elizabeth, You can stain various types of wood and get the relatively same look: you'll just have to do some test spots. If you've got a dark bare wood and a light bare wood that could mean that one is a hard wood (oak, mahogany) and one is soft (fir, pine). They will take the same stain differently so you'll want to adjust each "mixture" of stain before doing the entire job. Get yourself several small containers of stain and a bunch of small pure bristle brushes as well as some paper cups. Try first test applying a small area of each type of wood with the same stain. Then try other stains (test spots) as well as mixtures. It may take a bit of work but you should be able to come up with a pleasant uniformity. Once finished (stained) then clearcoating with polyurethane will help also to give all the wood a more uniform look. Even if the color isn't identical it can still look very stunning. I have new fir windows and doors in my house that I stained two coats of a teak natural color (dark). Then I clearcoated it with a satin finish. The ceilings are vaulted and are an unfinished clear redwood. Then I have several pieces of furniture that are oiled walnut. None of the woods look the same but the room looks pretty nice.
Matt
San Francisco, USA - Wednesday, July 26, 2006 at 22:45:20 (EDT)

I would like to strip the paint off the crown moulding, windows, and window and door frames. I have scratched off samples of all the areas and I have noticed that its not all the same wood..some added later in the homes life(1920's craftsman bungalow). Can I stain two different types the same color? The newer wood is very light and the older wood is very dark. Thanks for anyones help in advance.
Elizabeth
L.A., Ca USA - Wednesday, July 26, 2006 at 16:49:34 (EDT)

Michelle, I'm not familiar with the "antique" process (sorry). But I know that most paint stores sell products now that have packaged the look of antiquing and made it a simple step-by-step task. Anyone else out there with any suggestions? Check out your local paint store and ask there. Let them know the age and present condition as well as color/finish of your cabinets. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, July 26, 2006 at 10:14:56 (EDT)

We have oil based high gloss white paint on our kitchen cabinets. I would like to antique them. Can I do this and what product would be the right one to use? Obviously I can't use a latex stain over oil. I Would like to try this if possible instead of replacing many, many kitchen cabinets. Thanks, Michelle
Michelle
The Plains, VA USA - Tuesday, July 25, 2006 at 22:02:09 (EDT)

Pam, There is no easy way to go from a darker to a lighter stain. You could prime/paint over the darker stain to get a lighter color. However if you want to stay with the wood, you'll have to strip off the finish and stain from the windows and molding first, and then apply a lighter stain and/or sealer coat. This will help you end up with a new color/pigment and it's the only way to achieve a lighter look.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 24, 2006 at 13:34:26 (EDT)

Jack, I'm not sure why you'd use tar to seal the door... But then again I don't know specifically how much of a gap(s) there is or just how exposed it is to water seepage. I would try 100% siliconized caulk if the crack/separation is small. If it's a large gap then you may want to use a wet/dry roof patch, but also cover the separations with a mesh tape before applying the patch, to help prevent it from cracking later on.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 24, 2006 at 13:10:11 (EDT)

Samantha, Painting the walls in a room acrylic satin enamel? Don't sweat it. Acrylic means it's water-based. Satin Enamel is the finish: probably a low-lustre, which is actually preferred by some people as a wall sheen. The pros? It's much easier to wash/wipe for fingerprints and stains. The cons? Since it has a sheen, it will reflect light, rather than absorb it, and so may cause the room to look smaller, vs. larger than it actually is. Also putting a sheen on the wall tends to highlight any imperfections, also. Flat paints are usually used in main rooms on walls however some people choose a satin finish, as it also adds a bit of classiness to the room.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 24, 2006 at 12:53:34 (EDT)

Matt, Thanks for the advice on the paint problems with the bathroom. We're just waiting to see if the work done will hold or not. Now I have another problem and maybe you can advise. A metal two sided steel access door in the sidewalk which opened to the basement of the building was closed and sealed years ago. Now whenever there's moderate to heavy rain, water leaks into the basement and can flood a portion of it. Is there a sealant other than tar that can be applied around the doors to stop the leakage, or will we need to hire someone to tar it? Hope you can steer us to a product that will do the job that I can apply myself. Appreciate your help. Jack
Jack
NYC, USA - Friday, July 21, 2006 at 14:49:08 (EDT)

We have dark pine stain trim board through our home (plus wood windows the same dark trim) and we'd like to update to a lighter color. What would be the easiest and cheapest way to do this? I prefer the look of stain over paint. The windows are what concerns me most as they are casement.
Pam
Loveland, CO USA - Wednesday, July 19, 2006 at 11:32:00 (EDT)

I purchased some mis-tint paints to save money in painting our new home. I just realized some of it is Acrylic Satin Enamel, and I've already began painting a room with it. In looking online, I can't find a thing about painting regular interior room walls with this stuff, only bathrooms and kitchens, or trim. It's a beautiful color, is it crazy to be painting an entire room with Satin Acrylic Enamel? What are the cons and reasons why people don't use it for regular walls?
Samantha
Pullman, WA USA - Tuesday, July 18, 2006 at 23:37:08 (EDT)

Jim, After you clean the trunk try leaving a couple of strips of cedar, along with whatever you're storing in it. You can get them at Bed, Bath, and Beyond.
Tina
Forestville, CA USA - Monday, July 10, 2006 at 10:43:30 (EDT)

Jim, I wonder if it is actually varnish that is causing the scent problem. Varnish is a sealer with a solvent base that, once completely dried and cured (about 4 weeks)should not have any smell at all. At this point all the VOCs (volotile organic compounds)have been released into the atmosphere: IE. the finish has completely oxidized. I wonder if there's something else at play here. Is this a particularly old chest? Old or new, I would try to clean it out thoroghly, using a cleaner with a scent that you wouldn't find objectionable to replace the "varnish" smell. Lemon? Bleach? Vinegar, maybe? At least once clean, let it air out for at least a week in a dry place.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 10, 2006 at 10:37:56 (EDT)

I purchased a wood storage chest and the inside was varnished. When I put items into the chest they smell like varnish. How can I eliminate this problem? thanks Jim
Jim
Somerset, PA` USA - Sunday, July 09, 2006 at 13:06:48 (EDT)

Terri, Don't worry about it: exterior paint just has more binding agent and mildew-inhibitors in it to help it stand up to varying temperatures, weather conditions, and light. Your kitchen cabinets (and health) should be fine.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, July 05, 2006 at 12:55:52 (EDT)

What should I do if we accidentally used exterior paint on our kitchen cabinets?...Is this harmful to our health?...Thanks for your help!
Terri
Ohio USA - Friday, June 30, 2006 at 16:21:30 (EDT)

Jack, Repainting would not be a bad idea: if you waiting sufficient time for the ceiling to dry before and after painting. This time I would use an oil-based primer (BIN in the brown label can) and an oil-based finish paint (Benjamin Moore's Satin Impervo). The curing time would only be a few days to a week after final coat. This would work well towards preventing furture cracking/peeling/shrinking, however if you want to completely get rid of the recent resulting cracking you would have to skim-coat joint compound over the ceiling (several coats) and sand, before priming. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, June 27, 2006 at 14:12:56 (EDT)

Kai, $600 is not unreasonable for stripping down the side of your 8'0" exterior door, repairing/restaining it, and then resealing it properly. If you're comfortable that the contractor is skilled (has references) to handle this then I'd suggest going ahead.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, June 27, 2006 at 14:07:10 (EDT)

Matt, Thanks for your response regarding my crackled ceiling problem. I believe you're correct in saying "or all the above". Returning to the bathroom again this week, I saw the entire room was close to dripping wet when after it had been used to shower. Unless a superior ventilation fan is installed, I'm afraid the problem will never go away and I'm not sure even the best fan would do the job completely. But fan or not, do you think it's possible to repaint the ceiling and have it withstand this type of daily assault if I begin re-painting after a considerable drying out period and then, as you mentioned, allow for an extended drying time between coats? Also, could I just re-prime over the existing paint, or would I need to remove the coats of paint I recently applied? On a lighter note, everyone has been mollified a bit knowing they got a faux antiqued look without the extra labor. Appreciate your help. Cheers!
Jack
NYC, NY USA - Sunday, June 25, 2006 at 14:08:57 (EDT)

Matt, I see that you are from San Francisco. Can you recommend a company who can refinish an 8 ft. alder front door (front side only)? The lower front part of the door has some parts warping and the seal/coating is bubbling. It is only a 4 year old door. I had gotten an estimate for it and I was quoted $600.00 for one side. Is that really the rate for refinishing doors now? Thanks, Kai
Kai
San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, June 22, 2006 at 19:10:30 (EDT)

Jack, I'm at a loss, too, as to why your bathroom ceiling crackled (and the walls didn't). It doesn't sound like moisture coming from behind the ceiling. What did you use to clean the ceiling prior to and after sanding? It could be that the sanded dust wasn't cleaned off entirely before priming. Was the primer water-based? Oil-based is more of a sealer/barrier, as latex primer continues to allow moisture to penetrate after it's dry. It also could be the ventilation although it's difficult to assess without standing there and looking at the room configuration. It also could be that the conditions in your bathroom are more humid that what's typical and so would need above-average dry/cure time between coats (up to a week for the primer and at least two for the paint, before showering). It could be a combination of all of the above. I lived in New York (City) for 15 years and I was often confounded by a seemingly flawless paint job that showed multiple hairline cracks just weeks after finishing.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, June 22, 2006 at 10:42:55 (EDT)

Hey there, I just finished repainting a small bathroom which has not been well ventilated over the years. The ceiling was generally in good shape, with a few brown spots here and there which were sanded etc., and there was a minimal amount of patching that needed to be done. The whole ceiling was then cleaned, primed/sealed with Zin's sealer, followed by 2 coats of Ben. Moore's Kitchen & Bath Satin White to finish. Proper dry time was allowed between all coats of paint and before anyone showered in the room. Also, the ventilation is arguably better. Now, a week later the entire ceiling has "crackled", much like an egg shell crackling, and the original blue paint can be seen through the crackles. There's no peeling of paint (yet?) and the walls, which were prepped and painted in the same manner are fine and show no sign of this happening. No moisture/condensation is lingering on any surface either. Any clues as to what I might have done incorrectly or other probable cause(s) for this crackling happening and so soon? Could there be some sort of pre-existing moisture problem in the ceiling that is causing this? Should I have used an oil based primer or something different? I'm at a loss and we really weren't looking for a "faux finish" on the ceiling, if you know what I mean. Appreciate any insight. Thanks....Jack
Jack
NYC, NY USA - Tuesday, June 20, 2006 at 12:46:42 (EDT)

Hey, thanks so much for your advice on using Spic N Span on my bathroom walls to get rid of what looked to me like CRYING WALLS. I scrubbed the walls and bought a dehumidifier and life is great all over my house now. You really saved the day! Thanks so much for your help!
Lynn McCafferty
Europa, MS - Monday, June 19, 2006 at 10:01:36 (EDT)

Dina, Are you looking to darken the flooring? And, are the bamboo floor boards already sealed? Chances are they are pre-sealed (unfinished bamboo is difficult to find) and so, unfortunately, you're going to have to sand/strip them down to put a different finish on them.
Matt Nikitas
San Francisco, USA - Monday, June 12, 2006 at 11:10:03 (EDT)

Christine, I'm not familiar with the product you used but from the way you described the situation I'd say re-apply a solution less concentrated, leave it on for less time and take it up as soon as it loosens the recent cleaning attempt. Also doube check the instructions: how do they suggest you remove the residue, and what are you supposed to use (clean cloth? sponge?)? Saltillo tiles are great for outdoor or indoor spaces but, depending upon traffic and moisture exposure, have to be cleaned and resealed often. This maintenance alone is why you rarely see really "clean" looking floors with this kind of tile. Sorry I can't help more: anyone else out there have any thoughts?
Matt Nikitas
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, June 12, 2006 at 11:07:27 (EDT)

Is it possible to stain a bamboo floor that we just put down? The color is very light and it looks filthy all the time.
dina
ny, ny USA - Sunday, June 11, 2006 at 21:47:13 (EDT)

We have 1300 sq. ft. of saltillo tile. The tiles are looking old and uneven with the sealer and also have scuffs, stains, etc. from heavy traffic, kids, dogs, etc. We decided to strip and reseal. PROBLEM: luckily we started in a small bathroom first. We first used Tile Lab heavy duty cleaner and stripper, at a 5-1 ratio. That only cleaned, and only removed a little of the finish. We then got Aqua Mix sealer and coating stripper full strength and left on for 45 minutes. Now we have a huge mess of sticky, uneven tiles that look horrible. Should we repeat, sand, what? HELP!
Christine
Cypress, TX USA - Sunday, June 04, 2006 at 11:17:56 (EDT)

Lance, Unfortunately, I can't help you to match either the stain or the topcoat without seeing the wood in person. That said, yes, there was polyurethane 45 years ago... it was called varnish and had the same properties (solvent base and amber pigment). Stains can be mixed to create a more custom (possibly matching) color. Experiment by getting yourself a couple of the smaller cans of pigments that are close to your existing color and try creating a matching stain. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, June 03, 2006 at 15:29:59 (EDT)

Matt, Thank you for your speedy reply! It seems I'm in for a lot of work, whether I want it or not! Perhaps I overemphasized the cleaning requirement--I don't really want to clean to the point that the surface is damaged or dulled. I can live with the prospect of re-topcoating the wainscoting if, by doing so, there is some hope of lessening the visual impact of the wavy lines I described earlier. That, of course, brings up the question of what was used as the original topcoat. Did they have polyurethane 45 years ago? I would like your advice on how to determine the stain color and topcoat type so I can match it for the trim I have to replace. I stared at the display of samples at Home Depot without finding anything close. Thanks again. it's either clean it and re-topcoat it, or strip it down and re-stain or at least re-seal it.
Lance
Alexandria, VA USA - Wednesday, May 31, 2006 at 23:25:42 (EDT)

Lance, Let me address each question as I understand them. 1. You want to do a "deep" cleaning on the wainstcoting but you don't want to strip off the surface/sealer. Any cleaner, then will work. One with TSP (like Spic N Span) will clean pretty thoroughly and dullen the top coat. Anything beyond that is a wood stripper, and would require application onto the surface so as to remove the topcoat and then the stain underneath. There's really no short cut, if the original stain job is what you're unhappy about. However if you do just want to clean it really well, either with a cleaner (TSP) or a basic wood stripper, you'd want to follow with a new topcoat, to give the entire area a good look. Does that answer your questions #2 and #3, also? I mean, it's either clean it and re-topcoat it, or strip it down and re-stain or at least re-seal it.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, May 31, 2006 at 18:08:06 (EDT)

I bought my 45-year-old house 3 years ago and am nearing the final stages of renovation. I have wainscoting throughout my full basement and my problem is similar to some of the earlier postings but with a twist. The wood is pine and is stained and coated--with what, I have no idea. Incredibly, it appears the coating--or stain--or maybe both were poured onto the wainscoting. There are wavy lines where the liquid(s) stopped flowing, usually at one third and two thirds the way up the paneling--the doors have more! The wood is darker and has a richer tone at the bottom of each line. It then starts out lighter and gets darker again as you approach the end of the flow line nearer the floor. There are no real ridges that you might expect at the edges of these lines--just a barely perceptible rise--and sometimes not even that. This is why I suspect both the stain and coating were applied in the same manner. Additionally, there are many places that are appear to have spot or splash stains. I don't have the will power or energy to strip and refinish the entire basement and I’m hoping a good cleaning will go a long way, so my questions are: 1. What is the best product to use to deep clean the wood? 2. How do I determine what color stain and what top coating was used so I can match a few places and some trim that needs replacing. 3. Is there any way to even out the finish without killing myself or selling a child to pay for a professional? Thanks, Lance
Lance
Alexandria, VA USA - Wednesday, May 31, 2006 at 14:37:29 (EDT)

Michelle, It sounds as if you're doing it right. The last coat (usually the primer) is always the most difficult because the wood absorbed it, somewhat, when it was put on in the first place. Try leaving the paint remover (are you using a gel stripper?) on longer. At this point a rough steel wood like 0 grade is the best bet to removing the last bit of pigment from the wood.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, May 30, 2006 at 18:48:13 (EDT)

We are attempting our first refinishing project with a hutch. It has been painted with a primer and a top coat of glossy paint. We are having very little problems getting the paint off. However, the primer is much harder. Is there a certain method we should be using? Right now we brushing primer on and removing it with a scrapper. Then we are using steel wool to try to get through the primer. We have even used sand paper but this doesn't work too well. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Michelle
Chicago, IL USA - Monday, May 29, 2006 at 10:06:32 (EDT)

Morley, I'm not a fan of popcorn ceilings either, especially when molding is going up. Thing is, the house being built in 1969 suggests that there's a good chance that the accoutical sprayed=on ceiling has asbestos in it, something that you don't want to disturb (read in "SAFETY" section on this site). It can be tested for the fiber. If it's clean, the best way to get it off is to wet it (with water in a spray bottle) and scrape it off onto plastic drops (layed out carefully around the room to protect the furniture and floors).
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, May 22, 2006 at 15:10:22 (EDT)

Tony, You want to remove the cedar shingles? There's no easy answer via internet as to whether you could remove the shingles and successfully reveal completed original work. The shingles could be covering up some area(s) that may need carpentry work to repair and restore the exterior completely. The best thing to do would be to have a local contractor come out and assess the situation for you. Get a second (and third) opinion, too. Also, bear in mind that most building materials (adhesives and weather-proofing included) manufactured before 1972 contained some form of asbestos fibers. Bring that up with your contractor, also, when he/she gives your house the once over. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, May 22, 2006 at 15:04:03 (EDT)

I'm getting ready to put up crown molding. Some of the ceilings are popcorn and some are swirled. It seems like crown molding with popcorn ceilings are cheesy...Should I scrape of the popcorn and sand down the swirls before I put the molding up? My house was built in 1969, Thanks, Morley
morley
tulsa, ok USA - Thursday, May 18, 2006 at 12:06:17 (EDT)

Our home was built in 1919. We bought it two years ago. The owner before us had cedar shake siding put on the home in 1969. I have been snooping around under the shingles in a few spots around the house (carefully taking them off and returning them) and I notice that the original lapboard craftsman style siding and trim is still all underneath the shakes. It appears to be in good shape, but I have only checked a few places. I would like to restore the home to its original craftsman style look, would it be crazy to remove all the cedar siding, and would I be opening a huge can of worms? THanks
Tony
Seattle, WA USA - Wednesday, May 17, 2006 at 12:51:15 (EDT)

I have an unfinished spruce floor for a personal office, and I would like to get some feedback on whether waterbased laquer is a better option than oiling the floor?
ken
USA - Monday, May 15, 2006 at 18:55:43 (EDT)

Marcia, There are products available (at paint stores or Home Depot) that will lighten decks and deck furniture. Read the label to be sure that it will be safe for bamboo. The way they work is you apply the solvent, wearing gloves, and then let it sit. Rinse off and then let the wood dry thoroughly before either reapplying or sealing. Let me know if this helps.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, May 15, 2006 at 14:16:19 (EDT)

how do I lighten bamboo patio furniture that already has a dark and heavy stain on it? thank you.
marcia carroll
lady's island , sc USA - Monday, May 15, 2006 at 08:17:18 (EDT)

how do i get stubborn urethane off a pressed back chair this has been really hard and the chemicals are expesive
sarah
vancouver , canada - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 19:10:05 (EDT)

Witty, The best way to get a professional and uniform finished look is to strip the entire outside surface of the door. That means taking it down to the original wood. Since you indicated that you like the original stain color, you can successfully strip the door down to the wood and still leave a bit of the stain: in other words, you won't have to remove all traces of the original stain. Figure on using a gel paint stripper; apply according to directions. Two times should get the varnish/poly coat off as well as most of the stain. Then once dry, hand-sand with paper of various grits: start with 100-150, then 180, then finish with 220. Once clean and dry, it might be a good idea to apply a wood conditioner. Then apply your new stain (which you found that matches the original, somewhat). Be sure to use a STAIN (vs. a stain/sealer, sometimes called stain finish) by itself. Follow directions for each product you've purchased: then finish the surface with an exterior polyurethane coating: at least three. Figure on a light sanding with the 220 between coats and cleaning with a tack cloth. Also try to get each finish poly coat done when the sun is not beating directly on the door, to allow a nice, even drying. Good luck: let me know if this helps!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, May 03, 2006 at 13:34:11 (EDT)

Need to refinish a wooden front door to my house. Door currently facing sunlight much of the day. Door presently stained dark with polyurethane sealant coat. The bottom of the door looks to be the only part needing repair. What size sandpaper do I use? Do you have a step by step process that I could follow to insure the door looks brand new when finished? Is it possible to match new stain with stain 7 years old?
Witty
USA - Monday, May 01, 2006 at 15:15:48 (EDT)

Matt, Thank you for your suggestions about restoring a lighter look to our wainscoting. You have may have saved me moving. Linda
Linda
Adirondacks, NY USA - Wednesday, April 19, 2006 at 23:09:15 (EDT)

Dear T. Bennett in Carlsbad, There are epoxy paints available for restoring tubs and sinks. However I've not had great luck with them looking any better: usually the sink basin looks worse. Because the application is brush-on, and you really want them to have a baked-on finish (impossible when doing by hand). The only time I've had success with re-epoxing enamel is when we spray: however you would probably have to remove the sink basin (take off the fixture and unhook it from the drain) to spray it, and at that point it is just as cost-effective to replace the sink.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, April 19, 2006 at 14:15:03 (EDT)

Linda, If the wood is indeed unfinished then there are a variety of ways to lighten them. Check out wood/stain section at a local Home Depot. They have a well-stocked array of products that, depending upon the amount of work you want to invest, will help lighten/restore the wood to a brighter, cleaner look. I would also suggest that once you get the wood lightened and/or bleached that you seal them this time around. Varnish, polyurethane, and laquer are options. But I'm a big fan of oils: Danish oil, Tung oil for instance. This approach is like treating your wainscoting like furniture and will give it a richness, less the shininess. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, April 19, 2006 at 14:08:49 (EDT)

I am buying a house that has the ugly old vanity sink tops in the bathrooms that are some type of resin. I can't afford to replace them right now. Is there any type of paint you can use to faux finish them?
T. Bennett
Carlsbad, NM USA - Monday, April 17, 2006 at 13:26:45 (EDT)

I wrote earlier about cleaning or lightening my old wainscoting. I grew up with the look of the wood and love it. He, on the other hand, finds the 100 year old wood too dark and depressing. I thought if there was a way to clean it to freshin it up that would help, or possibly some kind of "bleaching"? All the wood is un finished. Thanks Matt, Linda
Linda
NY USA - Sunday, April 16, 2006 at 22:41:15 (EDT)

I live in a house built in 1912. The entire house is done in dark wainscoting. Is there a good way to clean the walls or lighten them without painting? Thanks, Linda
Linda
NY USA - Sunday, April 16, 2006 at 21:52:57 (EDT)

Becky, If the wood is already sealed then a fresh coat of varnish/polyurethane would do the trick. Clean the wood thoroughly with sponge and TSP (Spic N Span); be sure to wipe residue off/wait till dry. Apply polyurethane (varnish/solvent-based) or urethane (water-based) with brush and/or applicator pad. There are various sheens or finishes available: satin, semi-gloss, gloss. If the wood was not sealed and you don't want a shiny finish, you can try rubbing in some Danish Oil. Try a small patch first to see the results. Follow the directions and take care to dispose of rags/gloves, etc. with care as by-products of danish oil will spontaneously combust.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, April 12, 2006 at 13:54:28 (EDT)

Connie, It's difficult to assess if your furniture wood will take any new stain/color without seeing them. From what you tell me, though, it sounds as if they are sealed and so any coating over the wood (without stripping the existing coating) will not take. And even if it does take (stays on the surface without wiping off) then it will possibly/probably look dull somewhat and blot out the grain of the wood. So the short answer is that you can paint over stained/sealed wood but cannot stain over it without sanding down to the stain coat. As far as Shoji panels, there are lots of really good books available: Taunton Press has one specifically called "Shoji panels".
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, April 11, 2006 at 18:16:27 (EDT)

MATT, IT IS POSSIBLE THEY ARE OAK, APPROX 15-20 YEARS OLD, AND IT LOOKS LIKE THEY MAY HAVE BEEN STAINED.
BECKY
MERCERSBURG , PA USA - Saturday, April 08, 2006 at 21:28:28 (EDT)

I have a large collection of furniture with a stained cherrywood finish under a thin coat of laquer (only a few years old and in excellent condition). I would like to repurpose these pieces for use in a contemporary Asian theme space. Thus, darkening the wood with a soft sable-black satin finish would be ideal (Perhaps the woodgrain and the cherrywood finish could peek throguh slightly was well?). Outside of completely sanding down all of these (many, many) pieces, is there a product that could be applied after only using a tack cloth to roughen the original finish? Any suggstion would be greatly appreciated PS - Also any ideas on building Shoshi screen closet doors? Thanks.
Connie Vasquez
Oroville, CA USA - Thursday, April 06, 2006 at 16:00:49 (EDT)

Becky, What kind of wood are they? Do you know the age? What, if any finish is on them now? (Stain?) (Laquer?)
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, April 05, 2006 at 19:21:59 (EDT)

I have wainescoating on my walls and they are getting dull. What can I use to bring out the original look?
BECKY
MERCERSBURG , PA USA - Monday, April 03, 2006 at 20:36:32 (EDT)

Rhea, Use a bit of Murphy's Oil Soap diluted with water (they also sell the diluted version intended directly for floor use) and a soft rag. Target also sells a product called Wood for Good that is mild enough and works well on water-based/urethane-sealed floors. If this doesn't clean them off it could be that the floors weren't cured long enough before foot traffic was allowed on them. A solvent-based polyurethane can take between 1-2 weeks before the coating is completely cured. A water-based finish will take a lot longer: as much as 4-6 weeks. It may be dry enough to walk on several hours after application but you still want to avoid shoes and furniture without pads until cured. If that's the case then a final coat may be warranted: did you have a professional do the floors or yourself? They would just need a light sanding, cleaning with a tack cloth, and coating of urethane. Then you could allow more time this time to let them cure properly before allowing normal foot traffic.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, April 03, 2006 at 14:35:24 (EDT)

I have newly refinished hardwood floors, how do I clean clear scuff marks. I can see them when I am on a lower level looking at the light shine across the floor. They are oak finished with water based poly or urthane over oil stain. thanks Rhea
Rhea
Owensboro, KY USA - Monday, April 03, 2006 at 13:13:19 (EDT)

Carolyn, How much square footage of concrete are we talking about? A wide cold chisel (4") and hammer are the best way to scrape the glue off. I'm assuming that the residue left is the glue portions that were troweled on (looks like lines/rows/ridges)? It will take some elbow grease and pretty much how a professional company would do it (ie. handyman: unless the company is hired to put a new flooring down you might have a hard time finding a someone other than a handyman/day laborer to only clean the floor). Any other ideas out there?
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, March 25, 2006 at 12:25:35 (EST)

Hi- Can anyone tell me how to remove preexisting parquet wood flooring glue off the slab? We are trying to run some moisture tests and need the slab to be completely clean/dry first, and don't want to have to hire a flooring company just to do this step. Thanks!
Carolyn
Houston, TX USA - Friday, March 24, 2006 at 08:15:07 (EST)

Marthese, The carpeting that you want to remove was glued down to linoleum? You should be able to rip it up, although if they are linoleum tiles some of those may come up in the process. Not knowing what your application is exaclty (what adhesive was used originally, for instance) it's difficult to suggest something that would "dissolve" or remove it. And chemicals wouldn't be able to penetrate the carpeting properly to get it to loosen it from the floor underneath.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, March 22, 2006 at 12:42:40 (EST)

Danielle, I've left a call out to a friend of mine who specializes in faux finishes on cabinetry: I was hoping he could come up with a solution/suggestions for you (he hasn't called back yet). Anyone else out there with comments?
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, March 22, 2006 at 12:37:56 (EST)

I want to strip a carpet off tiles and would like to know how to go about it. Are there any chemicals involved to get the glue or anything else off? I never did such a job and would like some advice please
Marthese
Mgarr, Malta - Thursday, March 16, 2006 at 08:09:40 (EST)

Matt did you forget about my question on March 8th? I'd appreciate any help. Thank you
Danielle
Clementon, NJ USA - Wednesday, March 15, 2006 at 22:08:11 (EST)

Betsy, Adding durability now before dirt/scuffs, etc. to the new floor is a very good idea. However, you want to be sure that the factory finish is ready to accept the additional coating. Prefinished flooring is often spray-lacquered and ok to recoat with polyurethane/varnish so long as the surface has been dullened with sandpaper. Use a medium sponge sander and an extra piece of 220 grit paper. Go with the grain and use just a little elbow grease. Follow up with wiping the surface down with a tack cloth, being sure to get all the dust/particles off the floor. Apply a clearcoat of polyurethane/varnish with pure bristle brush (for the edges) and an applicator pad (for the main part of the floor). Let it dry and then repeat (lighter sanding this time with only the 220 grit paper, tack cloth, coat with polyurethane).
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, March 14, 2006 at 11:51:51 (EST)

I recently purchased a factory finished oak fooring for my kitchen. I would like to add more durability to the urethane finish by adding a second coat as I believe the factory finish is not the highest quality and probably won't wear that well. Can I do this over the prefinished flooring?
Betsy
USA - Sunday, March 12, 2006 at 19:04:58 (EST)

Jane, The best way to remove the adhesive/mastic on the walls is with a stiff putty knife and/or cold chisel and hammer. You may have to follow up with a bit of wall patching afterwards, as the mastic will most likely take some of the wall off with it.
Matt Nikitas
San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, March 12, 2006 at 15:08:40 (EST)

Greg, Was it a latex filler? They tend to be less absorbent of stain than solvent-based fillers. Nevertheless, your situation is annoying, to say the least. I filled gouges and holes in the floor of my house that were made of fir (originally laid as a subfloor) before I sanded them a couple of weeks ago. The floors were light and I used a latex filler because I knew I'd finish the floors with a water based clear-coating. Still, the filler seemed to lighten when it dried and though I kind of like the different look (much lighter than the floor), it surprised me, and also my partner doesn't like it. So I mixed some darker walnut wood filler with the same filler for the floors on the lower level, which I'm going to refinish this Tuesday. Anyhow. If your situation really bothers you and you want to remedy it, you could scrape off the finish (stain, coating, and a bit of the filler) to create a small crater where you filled. Mix a bit of the stain with the wood filler before you put it in the holes. (Try to get the darkness that most resembles what the rest of the wood already stained looks like.) Sand the patch(es), tack cloth, and the re-apply the stain to the bare areas, careful to wipe away any excess. Repeat if necessary. Then finish with the clear coating.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, March 11, 2006 at 15:37:00 (EST)

I have removed old tile from a bathroom wall. I now have a lot of hardened adhesive to remove. What is the best way to remove this adhesive?
Jane Martom
Wichita, KS USA - Friday, March 10, 2006 at 10:57:56 (EST)

We have brand new cusom cabinets that were laquer sprayed an off white on a simple shaker style cabinet with a beaded edge around. I originally wanted them glazed for a warm/worn look. After hiring a faux painter to glaze them we can't seem to get the look we wanted. The glazing looks a little messy and homemade for our brand new cabinets, however I'm still looking for a way to acheive the look I want. I'm wondering if a diluted stain would be a good idea, maybe a tea stained look. I wanted the beaded edge and the cabinet edges to get more of the color and the rest to just have that tea stain. What are your thoughts and any product recommendations. Thank you.
Danielle
Clementon, nj USA - Wednesday, March 08, 2006 at 14:25:19 (EST)

Matt, sorry I wasn't more descriptive about my refinishing problem. Here's the scenario; as mentioned, I used a wood filler that stated it was stainable, so I applied it to nail holes and gouges in the wood, let it dry 24 hrs, sanded it smooth with med. sandpaper, then finished sanding with 220. I then applied my stain and the areas I filled did not absorb the stain, they remained the color of the orginal filler (kind of a tan). Hence, the filled areas stand out, even from across the room.
Greg
Westminster, MD USA - Tuesday, March 07, 2006 at 09:56:46 (EST)

Gregg, When you say the spots look "bad", what do you mean, specifically? Did they come out darker than the wood? Is there a darker, kind of blotchy spot around each filled area? If the latter is the case, it could be that you didn't sand off the filled areas enough. After filling a spot and letting it dry, I usually fill again (if the spot dried concave and needs more filler) and then let dry. Then the sanding has to be pretty substantial: even when the filler is sanded flat, any residue AT ALL of filler left around the area (which is often difficult to see) will also take the stain or sealer and color differently than the wood around it. The sanding step for the filler is also the time to give the wood a cleaning with the paper also: at least a 220 grit to get any "film" off the wood. The film, or invisible coating comes from manufacturing, handling, and just overall age of wood (from time of manufacture to time of your getting the pieces) which can be in as little as a couple of months. Another problem could be that you did not condition the wood prior to staining, although not looking at your cabinets I can't say for sure. Conditioner is a sealer/primer coat that, when put on freshly sanded wood will give the wood a more consistent acceptance of the stain and/or polyurethane. Also, if you think the cabinets look terrible after just the stain it is possible that the multiple coats of sealer (polyurethane) will even things out, although again it's hard to say without seeing them. Sorry if I can't help more: I'm hesitant to say how to remedy the "problem" without actually seeing the pieces. Do you know of a local cabinet maker/carpenter friend who might be able to pop by and check out your work?
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, March 05, 2006 at 16:40:59 (EST)

I'm in the process of refinishing our kitchen cabinets and I bought 'stainable wood filler' to repair some gouges and nail holes. After filling the holes and sanding I applied the finish stain but the areas that I filled did not accept the stain and it looks really bad. Why did this happen? Is there a step I missed?
Greg
Westminster, MD USA - Sunday, March 05, 2006 at 11:38:42 (EST)

Lynne, You mention urethane, which is water-based (vs. the solvent-based polyurethane). Is that what was used to seal them before? Either way, white spots is usually a sign of uneven sealing which led to moisture getting under the finish and creating wet splotches. It could require stripping the old finish off and a good sanding (first 100 grit, then 150, then 189 grit paper) to get the wood down below the stain(s). It also could be that a fresh coat of sealer over the existing will make the spots dissappear. It can't hurt to try on one area. I am a big fan of water based sealer (urethane) but for the test you will want to go with whatever was put on the first time. If the test spot makes them go away, then let it dry and give the rest of the wood a light sanding with 150 and then 200 grit paper. Clean with a tack rag and apply the coating. Figure on at least two coats, with a light sanding and tack ragging between. Good luck!
Matt
San Franciso, CA USA - Friday, March 03, 2006 at 13:22:06 (EST)

My 5 year old oak bathroom cabinets that were laquer sprayed-natural are showing signs of wear. It seems the moisture from the bathing, etc. has made white spots on the doors. I want to recoat them and wonder if I coat them with urethane will it cover the white areas or will the spots be lighter than the surrounding area? Please tell me what to use and how to do it.
Lynne Heilig
Colfax, Colfax USA - Wednesday, March 01, 2006 at 19:56:16 (EST)

Eda, And we have had some rain lately! I'm not so sure about using polyurethane in an exterior application on top of tile. You could look for an exterior varnish, usually used for boats. Realize, though, that the coating has a slight amber tint to it. There are products sold at paint stores or Home Depot that are specifically used to add traction to steps. As long as the steps are bone dry and clean and have enough time to dry, a varnish mixed with some sand/traction material is an excellent way to prevent slippery steps.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, March 03, 2006 at 13:14:34 (EST)

I have a Mediterranean Duplex with tile steps to the upper level. I purposely used a saltillo tile look alike that had more texture so it would not be slippery in the rain. However, while it works in a drizzle it is not working in a downpour. Someone suggested a coat of polyurethane that is then sprinkled with silica sand before it dries. Any thoughts on this idea? Or any other solutions?
Eda
Los Angeles, CA USA - Tuesday, February 28, 2006 at 16:58:30 (EST)

Jo Ann, Protect the area with drop clothes and tape off walls/counters that you don't want to get stain on. Staining and polyurethaning will give a nice finish to wood cabinets. I've never worked with cypress but I'm assuming it's a soft wood, so you might want to apply a conditioner first to be sure that the stain doesn't take all blotchy. When choosing a stain, be sure it's not a stain FINISH (with the poly seal coat built in). Ask at your paint store (Home Depot only sells Minwax stain finish, which isn't what you want). It should be a straight wood stain. Apply according to directions and be sure to dispose of rags, brushes and anything you used the stain on, as the materials are flamable and can spontaneously combust. Tack cloth between stain and poly coats: apply the poly (usually 48 hrs later) with a pure bristle brush evenly with the grain and avoid drips. Let dry, light sand, tack cloth and another coat. Three coats over a stain will give you a durable finish that will last on kitchen cabinets!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, March 03, 2006 at 13:07:32 (EST)

What is the best way to stain cypress kitchen cabinets? stain, and seal. Polyurethane or Laquered for durability and looks. thanks,jo
Jo Ann
St. Amant, LA USA - Monday, February 27, 2006 at 15:31:50 (EST)

Barbara, If you're up for the spraying the doors/drawer facings, then I'd say go for it. Spraying gives the best looking finish, as you can avoid brush lines. As with any spraying, get yourself an area (in the garage?) that you can do this project without worrying about overspray. Sand any peeling/chipped paint. Clean thoroughly with a tack cloth and the tape the areas that you don't want to paint (inside of the drawers, for instance). If there are any bare wood areas apply an oil primer with a brush. Let dry and then follow the instructions on your spray equipment (as far as mixture for paint/thinner and nozzle adjustment). Test spray on a board first and if all is good to go then spray, let dry, light sand/tack cloth, and then spray again.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, March 03, 2006 at 12:58:22 (EST)

I have custom white lacquer kitchen cabinets that are 15 years old. The cabinets around the sink are showing wear. What would you suggest? Is there any glazing technique that looks professional that a homeowner could do? We have an air compressor so I also wondered if we could remove the doors and drawers and sand and respray with white lacquer paint using a paint sprayer? Suggestions? Preparation required?
Barbara
Madison, AL USA - Monday, February 27, 2006 at 11:19:16 (EST)

Harry, You want both pieces to be cut on the outside miter half of what the angle is. This way, the profile of the molding will line up nicely. Most common is the 90 degree corner, so the miter is cut on the 45. Bay windows are usually half that, so would end up being cut on 22 1/2 degrees. To determine the angle, get yourself a T-BEVEL. It's a small tool that measures odd angles. Are you using a miter saw (chop saw)? If so, you can test a few scraps ahead until you get just the right angle/cut.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, March 03, 2006 at 12:49:06 (EST)

How do I mitre cut chairail to make the ends match up when one piece is on a 40 degree angle and the other is straight?
Harry B.
Chicago , Il USA - Sunday, February 26, 2006 at 11:35:35 (EST)

Kris, I've never heard of a stainable vinyl door! It would make sense that the stain should be applied the same way as over wood: A pure bristle brush or foam pad, and then wipe off the excess as it's drying. Any one else out there with any ideas?
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, February 25, 2006 at 20:17:04 (EST)

Matt, I appreciate the help, which will help with another door that we are doing. The only problem is that the door I was wondering about is not wood. It is a stainable vinyl exterior door. We want to stain it and just wondered whether brush, sponge, or cloth would be better for vinyl. Thank you for your help and any suggestions you have.
Kris
Elberta , AL USA - Monday, February 20, 2006 at 16:33:04 (EST)

Kris, There are just a few simple steps to staining/sealing your door for beauty and maximum durability. First, be sure to lightly sand the surface(s) evenly. Even if it is already sanded (from the factory) a fresh sanding will give the wood a uniform absorbtion rate to accept the stain. Use a 150 grit paper and finish with 220 grit. Now, before the stain you want to apply a "primer", or wood conditioner. You can find this next to the stain at any supply store. This helps the absorbtion of the wood stay consistent, prevents blotchy-ness, and is a great 1st coat to make sure the stain penetrates the wood evenly. Follow the drying directions of the conditioner as to when to stain. Equip yourself with latex/vinyl gloves, a ziplock freezer bag, 2" pure bristle brush, a couple of clean, white rags (socks are great). Lay some newspaper down to catch drips. Stir/mix the stain well. (I usually like to transfer it to a larger empty, clean, pail, as manufacturers tend to overfill stain containers making it difficult to stir properly.) Apply the stain now to the wood with the brush: liberally, going with the grain. Finish the door and then wipe the excess off with a rag. If you would like it darker then you might have to wait 24 hours and repeat this step. If you get a bit on the hardware or glass it can be wiped off fairly easily, as stain generally will not dry unless it can be absorbed into a surface. Put your rags/brush/gloves in the ziplock bag. Don't put this with your household trash, as it can spontaneously combust. Plan on a quick trip to the dump or local hazardous waste site to dispose of properly. Now follow the drying directions for finishing. How long do you have to wait? Was the gel stain you used strictly a stain/ or did it have the stain/sealer components? If it is a stain only, then you will want to finish it with a clear coat of polyurethane/varnish. This also can be purchased at a home improvement store next to the stain. There are a variety of finishes available: satin, semi-gloss, gloss, high gloss. This can be applied to the door with a 2-2 1/2" paint brush: with the grain. Two coats should probably do it. Give it a LIGHT sanding between coats followed by a cleaning with a tack cloth, before applying the final coat. Let me know if this helps!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, February 20, 2006 at 15:18:24 (EST)

I am wondering what type of application method to use on a staining project we are doing. We have a stainable exterior vinyl door that we are applying gel stain to. I am wondering if should use a brush or sponge or exactly what to apply this correctly. I just want to make sure that we get the maxium results for our project. Thank you for your help in advance.
Kris
Elberta, AL USA - Monday, February 20, 2006 at 14:18:46 (EST)

Chris, There are ways to fasten wood to concrete (concrete nails/screws) but they are time-consuming and not necessary if your molding is smaller than say, 4" tall. Try using a combination of construction adhesive and hot glue. After a piece is cut and ready to go in place (you've tried it and it fits nicely) put a squiggly line of construction adhesive on the back and then (just before you put it in place) a couple of beads of hot glue. Put the piece in place quickly (hot glue hardens quickly)and hold it... for 10-15 seconds. The reason for the hot glue is that it will create an instant hold in case the piece is warped or the wall is not perfectly straight. Get an extra pair of hands if the strip is more than 4' long. Hot glue, though instant, is not a great lasting adhesive. However within a few hours the construction adhesive will harden to create a really good bond/hold.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, February 19, 2006 at 13:43:11 (EST)

I am finishing my basement in our new home. The foundation is composed of insulated concrete forms. I have finished all of the walls with sheetrock. My question is this: How should I install the base moulding without having any wood to nail into? The drywall is just screwed into nylon strips embedded into the foam.
Chris
Owatonna, MN USA - Wednesday, February 15, 2006 at 11:41:03 (EST)

Dianna, If the finish is bubbling/cracking/peeling and it is somewhat new, it's usually means that it was applied improperly. After the sanding and before the finish, the floors are swept, vaccuumed, and then tack-clothed to make sure they will have a good bond with the sealer coat. It could also be that the coats were put on too thick or that the temperature was not right (between 50 and 80 degrees). What does the installer say? Does any other readers else have any ideas?
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, February 19, 2006 at 13:33:44 (EST)

My hardwood fllors were refinished in September and the sealant is bubbling and peeling off. Any idea why? Could they have done somethign wrong with the work?
Dianna
Manteno, IL USA - Wednesday, February 15, 2006 at 11:18:57 (EST)

Shana, It is not an easy task to get a wood plank ceiling applied over a concrete ceiling. The neatest and easiest way to cover an area with wood planking is to nail or glue it to a compatable subststrate: concrete is okay for floors, although an amount of leveling will have to be done first. Plywood is best for a floor or wall and the only way to go as a substrate for a ceiling. Because of gravity, you've got to have a fast and sound substrate on the ceiling, and trying to get wood planks to stay (by screws or nails) will not be adequate and the fastening process will probably result in lots of visible damaged boards, as concrete is a very difficult surface to fasten things to. I would definitely find a local contractor who sounds interested and knows what they're talking about. The plywood will have to be put up with a concrete gun and adhesive: and this is a multi-man (person) job which requires a good amount of skill and knowledge. Sorry I couldn't be of more help!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, February 13, 2006 at 12:39:13 (EST)

I have cement ceilings in the condo I just bought. I would like to put a would plank ceiling into a small bedroom. What is the best method for putting the planking in place?
Shana
USA - Saturday, February 11, 2006 at 11:49:57 (EST)

Kaylea, If you don't want to try a drywall repair, what about covering them (how many holes are there, anyway?) with a cover plate? In the electrical dept. of larger hardware stores there are various size cover plates that are for wire junction boxes. If you can't find any large enough, there are different kinds of cover plates available: just be creative... the cover made for a bath exhaust fan, for instance. This way, you're not trying to hide it, just give it (the hole) respectability.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, February 01, 2006 at 10:56:59 (EST)

Matt- have a mobile home with 14'X16" acoustical ceiling panels-which are almost impossible to find and replace with new not to mention expensive if you do find them. I am looking for a cosmetic repair or fix where holes about the size of dinner plates are from removing light fixtures. I'm afraid a sheetrock patch is not very attractive as it is really noticable. Any ideas?
kaylea
HS, SD USA - Saturday, January 28, 2006 at 07:57:16 (EST)

Sandra, If you decided to go with the tin on the ceiling, it's pretty lightweight and can be cut easily with tin snips and applied with a combination of construction adhesive and common nails. Try a search on line for "tin ceiling panels" and there are all kinds of suppliers.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, January 23, 2006 at 11:18:56 (EST)

Doris, Are there any local hobby shops you can ask? If you do a search on line for "glitter gun" you'll get all kinds of links where the glitter/sparkle applicator can be found. Good luck!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, January 23, 2006 at 11:16:02 (EST)

Sandra, You can find the unpainted embossed paper that you're talking about here (Anaglypta) at any wallpaper supply house close by. If there isn't one near you, most paint stores have a wallpaper department. Home Depot even has a selection of embossed paper. It really isn't much heavier than regular paper although any ceiling job usually goes much easier with two people. I've never seen it in squares. When you say "ceiling" and "too heavy" the first thing that comes to mind is tin, which comes in squares and was commonly installed on ceilngs in the late 1800s and early 1900s. THis Victorian style has made a bit of a comback lately. It is usually embossed in various patterns similar to Anaglypta papers.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, January 23, 2006 at 11:06:00 (EST)

We use to put s sparkle on our ceilings with a sparkle gun. We loaned the gun out and never got it back now we can't find one. Where can we get one or are they using something else to add sparkle to ceilings these days?
Doris Gruber
Apache Junction, AZ USA - Thursday, January 19, 2006 at 20:55:01 (EST)

I have heard that you can purchase anaglypta in squares. I want to do a ceiling and what I am reading is that it is TOO heavy for one person to put up a ceiling by themselves. I have done regular wallpaper, but this might be difficult. Any idea where it can be purchased? Or, can I just cut it into squares myself?
Sandra Scott
Tonto Basin, AZ USA - Wednesday, January 18, 2006 at 02:47:24 (EST)

Yes, travertine is usually cheaper than marble and I like it better. It's a little bit softer and so cuts on the tile saw easier that harder tiles like granite. And it's very elegant looking. And, as a designer, I find it being used more and more in new buildings and high-end remodels.
Brian
Almeda, CA USA - Monday, January 16, 2006 at 12:55:13 (EST)

Elizabeth, Check out the phone book for local tile/flooring suppliers. Ask friends and/or contractors of friends/family as to where the nearby places are. The best deals on tile is usually carried by local houses specifically tailored to carrying ceramic/marble tile. The national chains like Home Depot aren't bad for pricing but you should be able to do better with a local merchant. That said, $3.50 for marble? That's a pretty good price! Look for the square foot price and whether it's sealed or not (you want it to be sealed). Of the marbles, travertine is a softer version that comes in a variety of warm colors. It's also usually a bit less expensive than marble. Nevertheless, any natural stone like marble or granite (vs. ceramic tile) that can be had for under $5 a sq. ft. is a very good deal!
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, January 16, 2006 at 12:48:58 (EST)

I want granite/marble tile for our new bathroom. Where can I find the real deals for this? Menards carries it for only 3.50/sq. ft.- but is this stuff cheap and poor in quality? How can I know if I'm getting a good deal or making a poor choice?! HELP! Elizabeth
Elizabeth Bork
Fountain City, WI USA - Monday, January 16, 2006 at 10:54:21 (EST)

Christina, You asked a lot of questions about your formica countertops. Least expensive is to sand the peeling places and where the paint has come off, and re-coat with a high quality epoxy paint. But I think you're right in assuming that painted countertops will peel again. The materials for replacing countertops are not what is so costly, it's the labor that starts to increase the bottom line of the cost of the job. Because counters usually include a sink and fixtures then there is call for a plumber/plumbing work. And almost always once someone has their old counters removed they realize that it is foolish to keep the old sink/fixtures, that they might as well replace them now. I am working on my place here in California and I used butcherblock for two pieces in the kitchen counter replacement. It is 1" thick good-quality stock that I got from IKEA for a very good price. It came unfinished but was easy to seal, as Ikea also sold sealer. The rest we did with Silestone, and the template and installation was arranged through Home Depot. The butcher block was probably $110, the stone counter soup-to-nuts was under $2000, and it all looks really nice. Anyhow, there are many ways to go with replacing counters, and depending upon the layout of the kitchen it doesn't have to be cost-prohibative.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, January 07, 2006 at 11:46:00 (EST)

Jim, Many installers do avoid the coping and just do two inside miter cuts and join them for an inside corner on crown molding. With outside corners you can glue and penny-nail the two pieces together to ensure they stay together. However that's not possible with the inside corner. Also, there is virtually no "perfect" room, with 100% true plumb and level inside corners. With new costruction the mounting and taping of drywall leaves you with a slight inside taper would force a crown installer to use shims at each corner to be able to close two mitered joints. And old construction is worse, because of age. The coping of the inside joint allows the crown (or base molding for that matter) to sit snugly in any corner, regardless of how off it is from 90 degrees. And it won't separate sometime down the line, after it's all painted.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, January 04, 2006 at 11:39:34 (EST)

Mark,POPCORN CEILINGS: worried about asbestos: good question. Up until 1972 it was used in almost all building materials, including acoustical ceiling compound. So you're in the clear: scrape away.
Matt
San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, January 04, 2006 at 11:31:56 (EST)

Hi! We bought a house with painted formica countertops. The paint is beginning to scrape off in places and looks terrible. What is the best and most cost-effective way to deal with this? We don't want to re-paint them and have the same problem in a couple of years. I was reading through your forum and you said the old counter almost always has to be removed. Ours are in excellent condition--no gouges, no edges coming up. Can we glue new surface over the old, rather than replacing the entire countertop (which seems very wasteful when it's in such good condition)? We have one curved edge on a bar counter--will that be too hard for us to cut? Then there is a tiled backsplash that was also painted the same color, but seems okay except that my husband hates the fact that it's painted tile. I imagine this has to be dealt with in some way? Or, if I can convince him to live with it, can we just lay new formica up to it and reseal the edge? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks very much.
Christina
Denver, CO USA - Tuesday, January 03, 2006 at 14:39:35 (EST)

We have just purchased a home built in 1901 and our staircase had carpeting glued to it. We removed the carpeting and we need to remove the glue without damaging the original woodwork. Then we want to refinish the stairs. How do we remove the glue and what do you suggest for lightening the dark stain of the woodwork? Thanks!
Lenore
New Milford, CT USA - Monday, January 02, 2006 at 12:20:12 (EST)

Why do you need to cope cut inside corners of base mouldings? Why not just miter cut them? thanks
jim
colorado springs, co USA - Sunday, January 01, 2006 at 15:48:40 (EST)

I'm getting ready to install some crown molding on a popcorn ceiling. My condo was built @ 1984 - should I have any concerns about asbestos if I scrape off the popcorn? Thanks!
Mark
St. Louis, MO USA - Wednesday, December 28, 2005 at 10:11:47 (EST)

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