Forum { Page 3 } Post Here     Forum { Page 1 } { Page 2 } { Page 3 } { Page 4 } { Page 5 }         Amanda, From the way you described your house it sounds as if carpeting would be the way to go. The most cost effective and attractive would probably be carpet runner: it would be approx. 30" wide and be installed up the stairs, covering the center portion of each tred and each riser. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, December 26, 2005 at 12:53:27 (EST) I don't know what to do with our new plain wood staircase we just had them done 2 yrs ago and blah. Our once living room is now our dining room and the stairs leads to the now family room. And with 4 children and a dog there is alot of traffic on them so now they look pretty dirty. We are considering carpet or maybe linoleum.But someting durable. I would just paint them if it wouldn't chip, however with the dining room having hardwood floors soft stairs and a soft basement floor would be wonderful. By the way the stairs are next to the back door and the stairs also run down through our dining room Please what would you do?? amanda spokane, WA USA - Friday, December 23, 2005 at 04:45:44 (EST) Raghu, You're asking about a couple of different problems/jobs. First off, the stair treds and risers. Different woods: are they finished now with a clear-coating (polyurethane) and/or stain? There are many good finish stripping products available for wood projects like this. Check out your local hardware store or Home Depot for either solvent-based or water-based strippers. Once the finish is stripped off then the holes can be filled with a latex stainable wood filler: find one that matches closest to the wood it will be going into. Now give the surfaces a sanding, starting with 180 and finishing with 220 or higher grit paper. Tack cloth clean up and they are ready for stain or just clear coating. Now the veneer corner can be a problem, as veneers are very tricky to work with. At the very least it's not adviseable to strip/sand veneers as it is very easy to sand down the veneer which is typically not more than 1/32nd of an inch thick. Anyhow if there's chipping you'll want to us a wood filler on this area also: find a color wood filler that is close to the veneer. Filled repair areas of veneer will not blend perfectly and dissappear. However once the surfaces are sanded and finished they will all look much better than obvious chipping. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, December 19, 2005 at 13:51:02 (EST) Jules, There are a couple of companies that produce paint products for different effects: Ralph Lauren and Modern Masters. Both are sold in America but I'm not sure about the UK. Check out your local paint store and ask about special finishes paints. Good luck: let us know what you find out! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, December 19, 2005 at 13:41:12 (EST) Hi Matt, I wanted to give my wood panelling a grey, stone like appearance. Is there any paint or other coating that I could use? Thanks. Jules London, UK - Thursday, December 15, 2005 at 16:47:30 (EST) How can I refinish my staircase which has oak steps and pine risers with nail holes and small gouges from staplers. Also, the bottom most riser has veneer around the corned and is cracked and peeled. How can I fix this? Thanks. Raghu Philadelphia, PA USA - Thursday, December 15, 2005 at 16:31:37 (EST) Tammy, You want the inside measurement: against the wall. Then mark your piece (whether it's crown, base, wainscoting)at the top backside and put the back against the back of the fence of the chopsaw or miter box. Test a piece and you'll figure it out! Good luck!! Let me know how it turns out. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, December 04, 2005 at 10:18:52 (EST) Tammy, You want theinside measurement: against the wall. Then mark your piece (whether it's crown, base, wainscoting)at the top backside and put the back against the back of the fence of the chopsaw or miter box. Test a piece and you'll figure it out! Good luck!! Let me know how it turns out. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, December 04, 2005 at 09:47:06 (EST) Matt, Help please....I am redoing all the woodwork in my home, BUT when putting the wood trim in I am not sure from what point to measure so all the 45% angel's even up together. Just don't want any gaps. Thank you Matt, Tammy Tammy Omaha, Ne USA - Friday, December 02, 2005 at 23:03:15 (EST) Mary, Janovic Plaza is actually a great source for well-priced embossed Anaglypta paintable papers. They carry a variety of designs. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, November 23, 2005 at 19:22:38 (EST) Krista, Before you prime the cabinet just be sure that it's free of grease, dust etc: so that the primer will stick to the veneer. Use 409 cleaner or TSP from the paint store. A coat of an oil-based primer (BIN makes one sold at Home Depot or paint stores) followed by a couple of coats of an oil(alkyd) based paint should do the trick. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, November 23, 2005 at 19:17:00 (EST) Can anyone tell me the best place in NYC or in Brooklyn to shop for embossed wallcoverings such as anaglypta or lincrusta/anaglypta? Thanks. I know this sounds odd, but I think it might look lovely as a decorative backsplash instead of tile. Thoughts on sources and using it this way? mary albany, ny USA - Sunday, November 20, 2005 at 18:28:16 (EST) I have a pie cabinet that has veneers. Can I paint it and if so what do I have to do to start? I would assume that if I prime it that would be enough. Please let me know. Thanks Krista Krista Norton, ma USA - Sunday, November 20, 2005 at 13:22:12 (EST) Dana, Use an oil-based primer (BIN makes one in a white can with a brown label that is excellent) and an oil (alkyd) based paint. Let it dry (give it at least a week to cure). Now to follow with laquer. Why don't you brush on the first two coats and then finish with spraying the final few, to give yourself an even, hard finish? Laquer actually dries very fast - much quicker than oil-based paints - and you should be able to spray on several coats within an hour. Just be sure your area is dry and well-ventilated (damp basements won't do) and use a respirator mask as the stuff is smelly. You can get spray cans of laquer in various finishes (satin, gloss) at any paint store or Home Depot. Let me know how it turns out! Matt Nikitas San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, November 16, 2005 at 12:03:58 (EST) Hi Matt! I have a computer desk with a laminated top that I want to repaint and, I think, laquer. I want a very hard, glossy surface on the finished product. The plan is to apply a coat of primer, paint, and then apply several coats of laquer, which I think take several days to dry? Does this sound doable? It's a nice looking desk as is, so I don't want to risk ruining it, but a new color scheme would fit better with my other furniture. Thanks in advance for any advice! Dana Kansas City, MO USA - Tuesday, November 15, 2005 at 21:36:57 (EST) Matt No it is not a scuff. When we moved the couch over the vinyl it left an impression in the vinyl. That is how soft it is. I mean I cannot believe how soft it is. I'm going to try the roller idea. That is what we thought of last night. After an hour or so of surfing the net for ideas we found your site. And I appreciate the help. Sites like this are always the best. I will let you know how it all went. Thanks again. Tina Hubert, NC USA - Tuesday, November 15, 2005 at 13:03:10 (EST) Tina, Is the zig-zag a black scuff? That can be cleaned off with a cleanser (but you probably figured that one already). If it's an actual dent it wouldn't hurt to try to smooth it out as best as you can with a small vinyl floor roller (sold at Home Depot). Still, it could be that the viny covering (between a 1/16th and 1/32nd of an inch thick) has separated from the paper backing, causing a permanent air pocket. If this is the case you could load a syringe with some glue (something very thin, like Crazy Glue). Pierce the area with a small nail and inject the glue under the surface. Take care not to get any of the glue on the front of the floor when rolling/flatting the area down (it might squeeze out if you use too much glue). Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, November 15, 2005 at 12:11:25 (EST) Larry, California does have stricter (if not the strictest) laws governing VOC (Volotile Organic Compound) products, such as oil/alkyd-based paint, polyurethane, and laquer. However I have not heard that cabinets made in this or other states are of different quality because of these laws. Actually most manufacturing and commercial businesses (like cabinet makers) are exempt anyway and so it wouldn't make sense that California cabinets don't last as long because of strong anti-polution laws. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, November 15, 2005 at 12:03:23 (EST) Have a question. I made the dumb mistake of moving my couch on my year old vinyl flooring. It is not bad but in certain light you can see a zig formation of where the couch had been moved. It lightly pressed down on the vinyl while dragging. Is there anyway I can take a rolller to it to smooth it out? Any other suggestion would be great too. I need it. I'm kicking myself badly since I knew this would happen and was not thinking to flip the couch over and move it on it...ugghh...lol. I appreciate your input. Thank you Tina Tina Jacksonville, NC USA - Tuesday, November 15, 2005 at 00:50:21 (EST) Matt, My wife and I are going to remodel our kitchen. I've been told that cabinets made and lacquered out of California last longer than those custom made in California. I've been told that California regulations have forced a reformulation of lacquer finishes and that they don't last as long. Any comments? Or am I just hearing tall tales? Larry Yorba Linda, CA USA - Saturday, November 12, 2005 at 00:56:06 (EST) Margaret, Your bathroom sounds just like my sister's in NH and I know that she'll encounter the same problems when she finally decides to get rid of the plastic tile and layers of wallpaper. There are several ways to go. First,you could forge ahead and remove all or as much of the wallcovering as possible. Then put a coat of primer on the walls, sealing in what's left. Now comes the smoothing part which I believe you alluded to in your letter. Using an 8" and 12" joint knife, apply a layer of joint compound over the entire surface of the wall. Your goal, after several coats with a sanding between, is to create a uniform, flat surface. This is called mudding or floating and can be frustrating even to professionals, so take your time and be patient. A good mudder can float out a flat surface over irregularities in usually three coats: you may need four or even five to get it just right. Then follow with a final sanding, priming, and painting. The second option is to drywall over the entire wall: cover up those problems with a new wall. If the wall surface isn't too bad you can use 3/8" drywall. There is an excellent how-to book on installing, taping, and sanding new drywall called "Drywall: Professional Tecniques for Walls and Ceilings" by published Taunton Press. Anyhow, let me know how it turns out! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, November 10, 2005 at 12:23:02 (EST) Geo, You're cutting it close with the floors! Newly finished floors should have a week before heavy traffic/furniture and water-based finishes sometimes require longer to cure. That said, you can usually walk on them the next day as the finish coat dries overnight. Protecting the floors is a good idea and you want to be sure that whatever you use won't stick to the new finish, as it's not cured yet. Used drop clothes might scratch, as they'd have dried paint on them. There's an on-line company that makes (expensive) protective coatings (called Protective Coatings), but it doesn't sound like you've got the time to order that stuff. Buy some new 4'x15'and 9'x12' thick drop clothes and lay them out for the moving/traffic. Also get yourself some of those furniture leg pads (Home Depot) and some cardboard pcs. Be sure the movers set stuff down where it's to go on either cardboard or (if it has legs) on the pads and certainly don't drag anything to move it in place: definitely lift. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, November 09, 2005 at 12:42:59 (EST) Sorry, just to clarify my last posting...I meant to say that we only have a 1 1/2 day window before the movers come in. Geo naperville, il USA - Wednesday, November 09, 2005 at 12:17:44 (EST) My flooring contractor is running a bit late. We have a 1 1/2 window for curing (Bona Traffic water base finish) before the movers come in with the furniture. I am looking for recommendations on how I can best protect the newly finished floor against the traffic from the movers. Getting very nervous...please advise. Geo Naperville, IL USA - Wednesday, November 09, 2005 at 12:16:03 (EST) Hi. I'm trying to freshen up our old bathroom which has wallpaper that's been painted-over AND ugly plastic tiles! Yikes. I'm in the process of trying to remove the rock-hard adhesive that was under the tiles...and I'm forseeing issues with trying to remove the painted wallpaper. I don't want to paint over it again...there are cracks and the surface is rough. So, once I get the adhesive off and the bottom half of the wall smoothed over...is there some way to resurface the entire wall (over the painted paper)??? Help me!!! Thanks... Margaret La USA - Tuesday, November 08, 2005 at 09:37:02 (EST) Geo, Since you are have your floors redone (I'm assuming by a floor refinisher) you ought to have them do the stairs at the same time. Sanding and refinishing floors is difficult enough but stairs are especially tricky. Make sure that the person/company you hire was referred to you: that you've seen their work. One of the problems with darker stains is that disc marks (caused by the edging machine which is used along the edges of the room and the treds of the stairs) will show up if not properly sanded/blended berore staining. Cheaper contractor that rush the job to give you a "good deal" may not sufficiently do the final (fine) sanding to ensure no disc or sanding marks. Another reason to have the professional do the stairs is to ensure that the stain color is applied at the same time to guarantee continuity of color. Let me know how it turns out! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, November 03, 2005 at 09:35:39 (EST) I would like to restain our 3 year old oak staircase from the current light stain to a medium to dark tone. We are getting our floors retain to the same darker tone. My question is on the staircase project - is this something I can do or is it better left to the professionals? Geo Naperville, il USA - Wednesday, November 02, 2005 at 11:20:56 (EST) Not sure which way I will go...brush or spray... as I need a good srayer for rooms so I might just spray the white paint. Am going to a good paint store today to discuss what they will recommend using their product. I stained my doors 30 years ago using the method you described and they turned out beautifully. I actually sanded down twice between coats. Will probably use the same process for stain this time. A lot of work but such a nice finish. I will let you know how the white paint turns out and what we used...brush or spray.Thanks. Mel Canby, OR USA - Saturday, October 22, 2005 at 14:01:04 (EDT) Mel, I'd use a good quality brush for the spindles, too. It takes a bit of patience to coat stair spindles / newels nicely without drips: just take your time and put it on thin the first time around and plan on at least one recoat. Good luck; let me know how it turns out. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, October 22, 2005 at 11:49:19 (EDT) Thanks for the advice...what about the spindles? They are primed from the factory but not painted. Did you also brush them? Thanks again. Mel Canby, OR USA - Friday, October 21, 2005 at 22:20:33 (EDT) Mel, You brought up a lot of stuff there. First off, White Lightning is a very good painter's caulk, especially their fast dry product. When you say painting and staining: painting which part? The risers and the stringers / skirtboard? And staining the treds? If so, then you're right to figure on staining FIRST. Stain and polyurethane, lightly sand and then clean the surfaces first and, in accordance to directions on the can, let dry/cure before going after the painting. Then you can, with a high quality painter's tape (3M makes one for delicate surfaces, about $13/roll for 2" width). Fill any nail holes w/ spackle, sand, clean, prime, and paint. I don't think you need to use a sprayer. We use a sprayer for in-shop laquer on cabinets or paint on louvred doors, but in 23 years we've always painted staircases on site by hand. A high-quality oil paint and good quality brush... take your time and you should be in business. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, October 21, 2005 at 11:11:26 (EDT) We are going to paint and stain our new staircase ourselves and need advice. 1. We heard of a product called White Lightening painters caulk to seal cracks before painting to give that "tight" look, any other misc. tips? 2. I know we need to stain before painting, any suggestions about products or procedures to give a pro-look? 3. What is the best sprayer to use for a pro-look on the painted portions? Are we nuts to try to do this ourselves???Any advice will be appreciated! Mel OR USA - Thursday, October 20, 2005 at 16:12:28 (EDT) Marvel, Can you describe the vinyl strip a bit more? How thick? Did it have an adhesive backing? How tall was it? Ridges? From your first letter it sounds like rubber stop molding: usually comes in 4" heights (although I've seen it in larger sizes). And it's usually carried at Home Depot or local carpet/tile retail stores. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, October 20, 2005 at 11:11:44 (EDT) I removed some rubber or vinyl edging(90 degree angle) from the steps in my mother's living room. It was an 8' piece. Could you tell me where I might locate a new strip of this edging? I have tried Menards, Lowes, and some of the hardware stores to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Marvel Thuringer Sturgis, SD USA - Thursday, October 20, 2005 at 00:39:21 (EDT) Diane, The removal of both mirrors AND old wallpaper will most probably cause some damamge to the walls and so there will be some repair necessary. The mirrors should be able to be pryed off without breaking them, by shimming a rigid putty knife behind the edges, slowly loosening a bit a time until it comes off. There's a variety of methods of wallpayer removal: powder mixed with water and applied with sponge or spray bottle (if using a spray bottle then be sure to wear a protective mask); premixed liquid (applied the same way); gel that is rolled on the wall; and a steamer (that can be rented). I would start with the gel and see how much you can get off, only resorting to the rented steamer if you find this old wallcovering has many layers and isn't coming off easily. The gel or any remover can be bought at Home Depot or other paint stores. Try it out, and let me know how it goes! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, October 19, 2005 at 10:08:37 (EDT) Sheri, The stain that is applied over sealed cabinets such as you mentioned will not adhere and usually won't even dry but remain tacky. The stain needs an unsealed absorbent surface so the cabinets will have to be stripped. If the surface is lightly stripped off then the stain will take. But if there's still a bit of residue from the old finish then that might discolor the new stain color. Your best bet is to start with completely stripped wood. Otherwise, have you considered painting over them? A good oil-based paint, applied to a clean surface could look very nice. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, October 19, 2005 at 09:56:09 (EDT) Is there an easy way to remove old decorative mirrors and wallpaper ( I mean OOOOLLLLLDDDD) from walls without ruining the rest of the wall. diane gilbert, AZ USA - Tuesday, October 18, 2005 at 13:54:15 (EDT) Can I apply a gel stain over a already painted cabinet? Sheri Endicott, WA USA - Sunday, October 16, 2005 at 00:47:57 (EDT) Stacy, Check down about 9 letters ago: someone asked me also about veneer and stripping. It can be tricky, as veneers are very thin and stripping can take off the finish AND the veneer. Still, there are furniture stripper products that can take off the wax coating and a bit of the finish without taking off the veneer: check in Home Depot and other home improvement stores for products like Furniture Restorer. GOOD LUCK! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, October 14, 2005 at 21:06:02 (EDT) Matt, I have a wood veneered dining room suit, and I want to refinish/stain it. I have looked all over the internet, and have yet to find a solution. Is it possible to strip the veneer and then stain it?? Thanks for you help. Stacey Stacey Madison, AL USA - Friday, October 14, 2005 at 19:22:24 (EDT) Tom, All the cracking and peeling paint should be taken off, as you want to give yourself a clean, sound substrate on which to put the new coatings for maximum durability. Scrape and sand: start with the scraping. Using a variety of tools you can get all the loose paint off. A 2-3" rigid putty knife and hard wire bristle brush will do the trick. Wear a dust mask, too, to avoid breathing in all the airborne stuff. Follow with an electric palm sander using a variety of grit papers, beginning with 60 or 80 and finishing with 150 or 180. Some contractors will, depending upon what the client wants, sand off the old finish completely down to the original wood. The sander will help smooth the dips where wood meets peeled areas even if you don't go down to wood everywhere. Finish cleaning the siding with water and TSP (a detergent found in Spic N Span, for one). Now fill large gaps/holes with bondo and cracks thoughout with a good latex exterior caulk. White Lightening Fast Dry is an excellent one. Then prime over all the bare spots... it wouldn't hurt to prime over the entire areas that will be painted. Lastly, two coats of the finish paint, using a high-quality exterior paint (Benjamin Moore has one of the best). Let me know how it turns out! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, October 14, 2005 at 12:23:19 (EDT) Matt, Great site! I need to know how to properly refinish an entire house of white laquered trim. The finish is approx. 12 years old and is cracking and peeling outward. What sequence of steps should I take once I have sanded and removed all loose laquer? My greatest concern is the voids where laquer is removed. Is there a way to even and smooth the surface? What do you recommend? Tom Hudsonville , MI USA - Wednesday, October 12, 2005 at 21:51:30 (EDT) Sorry...I meant Matt....too much on my mind these days..LOL Thank you, again. Alice Baton Rouge, LA USA - Thursday, October 06, 2005 at 20:00:57 (EDT) Thank you Mark, I will keep you posted. I know they will appreciate the book. I am going to pick it up for them tomorrow! Alice Baton Rouge, LA USA - Thursday, October 06, 2005 at 19:59:22 (EDT) Alice, Sorry to hear about their misfortune. There is a really excellent book that just deals with drywall. It's easy to follow and can be used both by the trade or consumers. It's called DRYWALL: PROFESSIONAL TECHNIQUES FOR WALLS & CEILINGS by Myron Ferguson published by Taunton Press. Good luck.. let me know how everything comes along. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, October 06, 2005 at 17:36:37 (EDT) My sister in law had their house flooded by hurricane Katrina...they are now needing to tear out the old sheet rock and hang new. They did not have flood insurance (not in a flood plain) so they need to do this themselves can you provide instructions or a resource to obtain instructions for hanging and then floating sheetrock? Thank you. Alice Baton Rouge, LA USA - Thursday, October 06, 2005 at 12:18:06 (EDT) Matt, thanks for the info! Martha Seattle, Wa USA - Saturday, October 01, 2005 at 01:49:32 (EDT) Martha, Hope it's not too late to tell you that stripping a veneered piece is tricky business. If there is just a wax or oil build up to take off then you may have success using a furniture stripper (sold in home improvement stores) and following with a LIGHT sanding (220 grit)just to clean up the surface for the new stain. If the table has a stain now and you want to get it off you may not have as much luck getting it all off before you take off the veneer itself. Veneers are generally a 1/16" thick and that's about as much as you will take off when you attempt to strip an old finish / stain. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, September 28, 2005 at 10:20:16 (EDT) I'm interested in a beech veneer table that my friend is getting rid of. Can I strip this and stain it a darker color? Martha Seattle, WA USA - Thursday, September 22, 2005 at 00:00:37 (EDT) Mary, Yes: use steel wool and/or a Scotch Brite pad to sand out the bubbles. Then follow with another coat of the polyurethane sealer. Also, make sure that you stir the stuff before application: don't shake it. Shaking polyurethane when it's in the can (to mix it) will cause bubbles. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, September 13, 2005 at 09:57:50 (EDT) We have built a bar and the top of it we put tile and coated it with polyurethane can you tell me what we can use to get the bubbles out of it?? I have been told to use steel woll but Im thinking that will scratch it all up. Mary Strawn, IL USA - Monday, September 12, 2005 at 11:36:00 (EDT) Andy, Thanks for the tips. Congratulations on your floor finish: sounds like it came out pretty well! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, September 07, 2005 at 10:15:51 (EDT) Well, I sanded the floors this weekend, and spread on the "crosslinked" water based finish which requires mixing in a hardener. The floors look great. Worth the extra bucks to get a long lasting finish. Time will tell.. ....I also recommended using the orbital pad sanders which can be rented at Home Depot. They are very easy to use and get into the corners and right up to the wall. Andy Oakland, CA USA - Tuesday, September 06, 2005 at 12:02:07 (EDT) Debbie,It's not easy to remove a mirror without breaking it or damaging the wall, but not impossible. Can you get a 4" putty knife behind one of the edges? (The more edges you can get behind, the better.) If you can, slide the knife behind the mirror as far as you can and begin to carefully pry it off the wall. As you force the putty knife behind the mirror more and more you're attempting to combination-pry it off-and-break the seal of the tape. Take it slow, but as you pull and continue to try and wedge the putty knife farther behind the mirror between it and the wall, it should start to come up. Let me know if it works, and good luck. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, September 03, 2005 at 09:28:02 (EDT) Matt,I have mirrors on my wall in my home. The had been put up with some form of double sided very sticky tape. How do I take them down without taking alot of the wall off with it? Debbie Debbie Dallas, TX USA - Friday, September 02, 2005 at 02:35:07 (EDT) Matt, After writing my note earlier today asking about water base vs oil based floor finish, I came upon some info about "crosslinked" water based finisher for wood flooring. The stuff claims to be more durable than anything on the market. It requires mixing the cross linker and then you have a limited time to apply the stuff. More expensive and an extra element with the mixing, but I hopefully it will give a long lasting coating for my kitchen. Any knowledge on this stuff (Bona Eon "Traffic")? They also sell a sealer. Andy Oakland, Ca USA - Wednesday, August 31, 2005 at 19:06:10 (EDT) Janie, I've never heard of the flooring and so without seeing the floor I can't say what would be causing it. What does the installer say? And is he/she lisenced, insured? I would suggest you bring it to their attention and let them know that you're not satisfied, looking for a remedy. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, August 21, 2005 at 20:30:45 (EDT) Please help! We are having a house built and our new hardwood floor has places on the ends of some of the planks that look like that have been mashed down and are fraying what caused this? It is Oak Infinity premium hardwood and we were told it was top grade is it the installer or is this normal? It is not like that on every end which is odd to me.Thanks janie morristown, tn USA - Saturday, August 20, 2005 at 21:09:04 (EDT) Justin, Your job sounds like a big pain. Do you have a question? Matt Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, August 20, 2005 at 10:01:46 (EDT) Rob, Good to hear from you. Though I don't remember you, we're talking about over 30 years here. Brother John is doing well with a family in Tennessee. Haven't seen nor heard about Lisa in almost 20 years. You can e-mail me directly through this website. Thanks, Matt Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, August 20, 2005 at 10:00:11 (EDT) i am scarping paint off my deck and it is taking forever. The paint is floor & patio paint. it is epoxy reinforced. Latex enamel interior/ exterior. the builders painted the deck and it was the ugliest color ever. justin anfudo boston, MA USA - Friday, August 19, 2005 at 16:55:43 (EDT) Matt, I believe you are the Matt Nikitas who used to be Lisa Halliday's best buddy in Junior High. Do you remember I was Lisa's boyfriend way back then? Anyway I saw your recent posting on the Nashua High alum site and thought I'd check out your site. It's good to see you're doing well. I'd be curious to find out how you ended up in California. I moved out of town for a while, including living in the Big Apple, but I moved back to the Nashua area in the mid 80's, got married, and have raised a family here. Life's good. I made a bunch of money working for Microsoft, left at that age of 40 and have been trying to lead a fulfilling life since then. Besides running my own environmental company I spend my time with family, hiking, snowboarding, biking and playing in my band. No complaints here. Hope you're doing well. How's your brother John doing and do you ever hear from Lisa these days? Rob Gual Rob Gual Hollis, NH USA - Wednesday, August 17, 2005 at 10:26:13 (EDT) Ramona, Use a mirror mastic (glue). It's black and usually comes in a caulking tube or cans: any glass and mirror store will have it, or home improvement center like Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, August 11, 2005 at 10:45:46 (EDT) I want to istall a large mirror in the bathroom and want to know what is a good glue to se??? Ramona b, co USA - Wednesday, August 10, 2005 at 19:05:28 (EDT) Sue, A common problem: it could be happening for a variety of reasons. Are you having it done by a professional painting company or are you doing it yourself? (A painting company could at least guarantee their work.) The side of the house that gets the most sun all day long can develop premature peeling. (Just like a shady side can develop mold problems.) It could be the quality of paint. Most probably, though, it is something in the prepwork: a skipped or rushed step. Not enough primer? Not the right kind? (Raw exterior wood should be primed with an oil-based primer and followed by latex finish paint.) Not seeing your house, it would be difficult for me to diagnose why you particularly are having the problems. Can you get a lisenced painting contractor (who specializes in exteriors) to come over and look at your house? Most give free estimates. If you have someone come out to bid repainting you can alert them to what's been happening and ask them why / and they would prevent it from happening in the future. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 25, 2005 at 09:56:19 (EDT) My parent's house has wood siding the whenever we have painted it within one month the south and east sides blisters and then peels. This has gon on for years. Last time we took it down to raw wood, primed the wood and then painted. Any suggestions Sue Seattle, wa USA - Sunday, July 24, 2005 at 21:29:15 (EDT) Glenn, You CAN paint a latex over a previously-laquered surface as long as the surfaces are prepped. And yes, giving them a light sanding should do the trick. Use a 180 grit sandpaper and sand all the areas to be painted. The amount of effort? I guess it would be similar to "dusting"... in other words, using the paper to rub all the surfaces without getting too crazy. The point is to give it a "tooth" for the new paint to adhere. Follow by cleaning thoroughly with a TSP-based product. Let dry and then clean any remaining dust, etc. with tack clothes. Since you're sealing a varnished surface a high-quality primer/sealer would be the best bet before the two coats of finish paint. You will probably end up diluting the paint in the sprayer but with water but just how much depends on the brand and the finish. Talk to someone at the paint store who seems to know what they're talking about. Also, figure on a 320 grit light sanding and tack cloth cleaning between coats. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, July 13, 2005 at 10:08:17 (EDT) Hi Matt. Thanks for your help on an earlier question. I have some additional questions regarding a painting projectI hope to undertake. I will be using an HVLP sprayer to paint (with latex) several doors and trim (baseboard, chairail, crown molding and all the trimwork around windows and doors). All have a stain and lacquer finish now put on by the builders. Do you recommend sanding the lacquer finish before spraying and if so, how much effort should I put into sanding, and what grit of sandpaper should be used? Using the HVLP sprayer, would I have to thin the latex paint? Should I use a latex primer before applying two coats of the latex finish paint? Or can I get by with the primer coat and one coat of finish? How would you do it? Thanks again. Glenn Ohmeier Denver, CO USA - Tuesday, July 12, 2005 at 18:00:37 (EDT) Glenn, You can use a T-bevel to gauge an odd angle on a wall and then use the tool to transfer the degree of the angle to the miter saw. They're pretty handy and you can get a basic one at Home Depot for under $10. How big is the curve at the corner, though? Is cutting pieces around the curve the best way to go? Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, July 12, 2005 at 10:41:33 (EDT) Ozzy, Can you give more info about this formica table? Is is a color? Is the laquer finish clear? Does it look like just one coat? Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 11, 2005 at 11:29:43 (EDT) Ozzy, Laminates are a difficult surface to coat because they are so non-porous. In other words, not much will stick to them. Still, there are coatings available that are made specifically for glass and laminates. I haven't had much success laquering over laminates. We usually spray laquer, multiple thin coats, though brushing can be done also. I'd really have to see the piece to be certain, but if it's chipping off the first step would be to get the remaining finish off before trying to recoat... but you'd want to be careful of the laminate finish. Any one out there with a suggestion? Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 11, 2005 at 11:26:04 (EDT) Hi Planning to install baseboard, chairrail and crown molding around rounded corner bead, using 22.5 degree miter cuts with the small extra piece which fits between the two main pieces.. How would you accurately measure and cut all the pieces? Thanks glenn denver, co USA - Sunday, July 10, 2005 at 13:46:34 (EDT) I have a formica table with a laquer finish on top. Some of the laquer has been chipping away. How can I refinish the table? I've heard it's hard to laquer over formica. Ozzy St. George, UT USA - Sunday, July 10, 2005 at 11:28:42 (EDT) Thanks Matt-as for the 3 coats, it was a mutual decision by the finisher and myself. I only have 3 coats on the kitchen floor-reason being-I want the pine floor to get an old look to it ASAP, without taking a chain and hammer to it! My floors actually look like your home page when they are first finished. I cannot say enough about the ease of these floors. I have deer camp here the entire month on Nov. and the fellows don't have to worry about the floor, scratches and dents welcome. None of the fuss as with hardwood floors. I do believe you are correct in that the marks are here to stay unless I have them removed professionally. They are minor and will blend once the floor gets the "lived-in" look I like. I don't want to remove all the furniture again! Thanks for your help, your site is wonderful and I may be back with more questions as we continue to make home improvements and plan a lakeside log home. Many challenges ahead! Ann Chillicothe, IL USA - Friday, June 10, 2005 at 16:12:18 (EDT) Ann, Well, first of all, congrats on your new floor! Latex (water)-based polyurethane is a nicer, more enviromental-friendly alternative to floor coating than the traditional solvent-based polyurethane. It also gives a true color when sealing the wood, vs. the amber-tint that smelly poly coats offer. However, a couple of things to know when using water-based (also called urethane). Though 3 coats of the solvent-based poly is fine, at least 4 coats of the water-based is recommended to get the same protection. And though it is dry for light traffic by the next day, the cure time for a urethane floor coating is AT LEAST a week. A cured floor will allow heavy traffic and enable you to easily clean scuff marks, etc. It could be that the third coat wasn't dry enough to allow unprotected walking. The follow-up contractors should have known better, ie: protected the floor. And the floor refinisher should have covered the floor after it was dry or at least told you that you could/should do this after 24 hours, if heavy traffic (workers) would be in there the next day. I would suggest you talk to the workers that caused the scuffs as well as the floor contractor. It's clearly not your fault/responsibility and I'm sure they would be able to work out a solution between the two. The floor person (wait for him/her to return from vacation) should be able to clean up the scuffs and, whether the finish now is a bit scratched (from cleaning) or not, could follow up with a 4th coat of urethane on the floor. This would re-seal it, make you, the client, happy, and give it the necessary final coat that water-based poly requires for lasting durability. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, June 10, 2005 at 10:54:43 (EDT) Hey Matt, hope you can help me. I just had a pine floor put down in my bedroom and the contractor finished it with 3 coats of water-based poly. How do I remove black shoe marks? The floor is only 3 weeks old, and the marks were made 24 hours after the floor was finished(by other contractor putting down baseboards). I have the same floor and finish in my kitchen. It has been down for 5 years and I never have any problems removing shoe marks. The recommendation from the floor finisher for cleaning is water and Windex mixed. This is not budging the shoe marks! And the floor finisher is on vacation---HELP! Ann Hayes Chillicothe, Il USA - Thursday, June 09, 2005 at 15:54:38 (EDT) Teryl: sorry: I just re-read my letter and realized I forgot to tell you about applying the water to the ceiling. WITH A SPRAY BOTTLE.... You can buy a new 2-gallon insecticide sprayer at Home Depot. Or use a gardener's spray bottle or old, cleaned out Windex bottle. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, June 06, 2005 at 21:29:36 (EDT) Teryl, Ah, yes, popcorn ceilings! We've talked about them many times over the past few years in this forum. They are fairly easy to remove, but messy. Everything underneath has to be covered with plastic, as the method you'll use to get the popcorn off is water. You want to saturate the accoustical sprayed on stuff so that it scrapes off easily with a 6 or 8" putty knife. If it has been wetted enough then, with a little practice, it should come off without scratching the ceiling/drywall too much. Try 3' x 3' sections at a time and wipe each area down with a wet sponge after scraping, to smooth the flat surface and basically clean the excess off. Once finished and dry, use a joint compound to patch an scrapes you may have created, then let dry, sand, (re-spackle until you're happy with the surface) and the prime the entire ceiling. Now you're ready for paint. The only thing about glossy paint is that it will show up any bumps/scratches/etc. on the ceiling, whereas a flat paint won't show as much. NOTE: If your ceiling was put up before 1972 then there is a possibility that the accoustical spray material will contain asbestos, and that's something you really don't want to mess with: see my article on that in the "TOOL BOX" section of this site. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, June 06, 2005 at 21:26:59 (EDT) Oh, yes, Alison: if you do decide to try out the spraying, then be sure to check the directions on the lacquer and the sprayer to figure on how much it will have to be thinned (with lacquer thinner) before spraying. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, June 06, 2005 at 21:16:46 (EDT) Alison, You don't have to strip the furniture to laquer over it, but prepping it to accept the lacquer is a good idea so that the lacquer adheres nicely. This means a light sanding and then cleaning with a detergent like TSP (or Spic N Span). There are paint products available that will offer a "lacquered finish", that can be brushed on. However, you don't want to have brush marks, and you're going to want many coats. The best way to apply lacquer is to spray it on, because spraying applies a very thin, even coat, and this will enable you to put on 4 or 5 coats without creating too much build-up of paint and still allow you to achieve a slick, glossy finish. You can rent or buy small sprayers (I have an electric one that I got at Home Depot that we use for touch-ups on the job and I paid $40 for it) that should be pretty easy to use. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, June 06, 2005 at 21:13:48 (EDT) Robin, you can apply a darker stain over a lighter one but you won't get the true color of the new stain and it will probably look kind of mottled. For best results, try taking as much of the old stain off as possible before restaining. Rubber gloves, gel paint stripper applied with a small pure-bristle brush and removed with steel wool should do the trick. Figure on applying and removing the stripper in accordance with the directions, at least 2 times/maybe 3, and your wood should be ready to accept a new/darker stain nicely. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, June 06, 2005 at 21:03:08 (EDT) Hi Matt, I have popcorn ceilings which I despise. How can I remove the texture without gouging the drywall? I want to repaint with a semi-gloss. Is this appropriate? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Teryl Las Vegas, NV USA - Sunday, June 05, 2005 at 02:41:19 (EDT) I want to put a black lacquer finish over the traditional ivory/gold that is now on a French Provential bedroom suite. The paint that is on it now is in excellent shape with very few dings or scratches. Is it necessary for me to strip the furniture first? How do you go about getting the "black lacquer look" I am an upholsterer by trade so I feel quite sure that I can handle the job if you could give me some pointers. Allison Wilson Montevallo, AL USA - Saturday, June 04, 2005 at 03:04:53 (EDT) Hi Matt. I was so happy to discover your site. My question for you is... I want to change the stain color on several pieces of furniture. They are pine and were originally finished in a honey wax, no sealers. Can I just apply a new color of stain to this furniture? I am planning to use a darker finish such as mahogany or antique cherry. Robin Evansville, IN USA - Saturday, June 04, 2005 at 01:06:49 (EDT) The lacquer is clear but it is coming off in places due to steam (over my range) rose Nl Canada - Friday, June 03, 2005 at 22:10:23 (EDT) Rose, why do you want to clear-coat over a laquer finish? Does the laquer have a color? Anyway, give the surfaces a light sanding, using a 280 or higher grit sandpaper. Clean off the dust with a tack cloth. Follow up with cleaning the surfaces thoroughly, using a detergent like Spic 'N Span or TSP (sold in paint stores). Let dry completely (overnight) and then the surfaces should accept a latex urethane clear-coating nicely. Use a 2" paintbrush along with a small (4"x3") applicator pad for each coat... figure on four coats total, with a light sanding then tack cloth between the 1st and 2nd coats. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, June 03, 2005 at 19:34:28 (EDT) My kitchen cupboards have a lacquered finish and I want to know if I can put a latex based clear-coat on them.What do you recommend? Rose NL Canada - Friday, June 03, 2005 at 14:45:04 (EDT) Perry, OK: I'd use a solvent-based polyurethane (in other words, NOT a water-based). Polyurethane is also called varnish, and I'd use an exterior/interior varnish, gloss or high gloss finish. Figure on applying several coats (at least five)with a sanding and tack-cloth cleaning between coats. Use an applicator pad and pure bristle brush. Let it dry overnight between coats and at least a week before using it, after the final coat. Good luck, let us know how it turns out! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, June 03, 2005 at 10:28:46 (EDT) Hello Matt, Professionally, the slide board is used by skiers to train in the summer, when they have no snow, which provides lateral training and cardio vascular activity. The first slide was said to be a very slick barn door with a piece of wood nailed down on each end. You would slide from side to side to mimick the skiing movements. To help in the sliding motion, wool socks, or special booties are worn over the shoes. For the unprofessional, that's me, it is used for a cardiovascular, low impact workout which targets the abs, hips, glutes and thigh areas. I've attached a website which shows one brand of the slide. Perry Fairfax, VA USA - Thursday, June 02, 2005 at 06:49:10 (EDT) Perry, What's a SLIDE BOARD? Is it just a board to stretch on and/or do exercises? Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, June 01, 2005 at 23:00:50 (EDT) Hello Matt, I want to prepare a slide board (for exercise) myself because the good finished boards range from S150 and upwards. The concept should be simple and I thought I could start by an 8x4 good quality piece of plywood. My question is, what type of finsh (water/oil based) should I use and how many times should I apply it to achieve that "ice slippery" coat so as to allow me to slide? Thanks Perry Fairfax, VA USA - Wednesday, June 01, 2005 at 16:12:15 (EDT) Stephanie, Latex polyurethane which is has water as it's main component is pleasant to use because it doesn't have fumes when applied; also doesnt dry with that yellow-amber color in the coating.. it will give the most true color of the wood that you apply it on. Four coats (vs. three of the solvent-based polyurethane) will do the trick and leave a durable finish. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, May 30, 2005 at 20:29:49 (EDT) i watched a tv show that designer suggested using latex polyuerthane.is that a type of polyurethane or one made to use over latex paints? stephanie walker, la USA - Monday, May 30, 2005 at 00:14:56 (EDT) Megan, If the furniture stripper you're using is working well on the flat parts of the chair then try using it on the spindles and removing it with clean steel wool. Also try leaving it on longer? Try a paste paint/stain remover (Home Depot sells Jasco brand, which works really well). Put it on the spindles nice and thick and (following the directions) leave it on for 15-20 minutes. Now wipe it off with clean steel wool. There is also an expensive product called Peel Away that is a paste that is applied onto the surface, then covered with a supplied "cover" (paper) and then let sit overnight or a even a couple of days. We've used this product on doors and it works very well. Good Luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, May 27, 2005 at 10:46:27 (EDT) Matt, I am trying to refinish some old chairs. The seat is no problem to remove dark stain from, but the spindles and ornate work at the head rest are quite resistant to removal. any suggestions? I am using a furniture stripper Circa ??? megan ottawa, on - Thursday, May 26, 2005 at 15:13:02 (EDT) Matt, The contractor is the Drywall Contractor. He's saying the blistering is due to Wood shrinkage. I've done a bit more research since I sent my first note to you. All literature I've read details "CRACKING" due to wood shrinkage and blisters due to not enough mud in the joint prior to applying tape and "troweling" out the excess compound, mud etc. (As you have described previously.) I don't have any cracks but I've got blisters. No Pun. Knowledge is power though so thanks a ton Matt, for your information. We'll have to see how "toothy" things get when I reveal my new found drywall knowledge to the contractor. I must say, everything else about the Drywall job is satisfactory. Unfortunately the "after service" is lacking. Jen Campbell, ca USA - Thursday, May 19, 2005 at 15:35:35 (EDT) Jen, Which contractor is fixing the bubbles? And what reason did he/she give for it? The contractor who was reponsible for the drywalling,taping, and muding is also responsible for making sure it's done right: that means correcting any situations like the bubbling, at his expense. That's basic common sense and basic workmanship practice. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, May 19, 2005 at 10:15:00 (EDT) Matt, Thanks for the info. I spoke with the contractor, he'll fix the blisters and invoice me. Now I'm bummed. Jen Campbell, Ca USA - Wednesday, May 18, 2005 at 15:31:08 (EDT) Jen, When the drywall joints were taped (coat of joint compound, the tape, then drag off excess with a taping knife) there were probably air pockets left between the drywall joints and the tape. The way to fix it is to cut through (with a utility/mat knife) the paint, compound, and tape to the drywall: actually cut around the air bubble, so you're basically cutting it out. Then it needs to be re-mudded (several coats), sanded, primed, and repainted. If your place is newly remodeled then who was the contractor? He/she should definitely come back and take care of that for you. Good luck! Matt Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, May 16, 2005 at 22:41:30 (EDT) Matt, Just moved back into my remodeled house. I see "blisters along some of the ceiling drywall joints. What causes this and what do I need to do to fix it? Jen Jen Campbell, Ca USA - Monday, May 16, 2005 at 19:39:52 (EDT) Glen, I don't really know what a transition cap is. But I like the look of a rounded corner bead and straight outside-miter cut on the molding: you can fill the little gap and then caulk the base or crown as usual. And yes: not only do you have to take out the existing corner bead (if you're interested in going with a rounded corner bead), but you'll have to take out at least 1/2" of the overlapping panel of drywall (or plaster)so that you can sit the new rounded bead on the edge. You also asked about an HVLP sprayer. If you're going to use a high volume low pressure sprayer, be sure to do any clear-coating first (polyurethane or laquer) and then do the painting after. This way you won't have any little paint particles (which are invariably left in the sprayer after painting) getting in the clear-coat. Also cover/mask everything that's not getting sprayed, before spraying. If you've sprayed before then you know that once you've got the area prepped/covered the actual spraying goes nice and fast. And the result is far superior to brushing/rolling. Good luck: let us know how it turns out. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, May 12, 2005 at 20:07:11 (EDT) Hi Matt What do you think of using "transition caps" offered by some companies to transition down from rounded corner bead to the baseboard? Which look would you prefer?Also, is it necessary to take out the existing straight corner bead before installing the new rounded bead? What's the best way to break the existing texture and bead? Also, I plan to refinish my stained and lacquered 6-panel doors. I detest ANY brush marks so I am considering using an HVLP sprayer with latex paint. I would like to also spray paint new baseboard, chair rail, and crown molding before install with the HVLP sprayer. I'm fairly handy, but have never used an HVLP sprayer. I have used airless sprayers to paint my house exterior with good success. Thanks Glen Ohmeier Denver, co USA - Saturday, May 07, 2005 at 12:16:03 (EDT) Hi Matt Appreciate your website! Re rounded corners..what do you think of using "transition glen ohmeier denver, co USA - Saturday, May 07, 2005 at 11:47:33 (EDT) Mary, Thanks for visiting the site. Check up underneath the base cabinets to take out all the screws that are holding the counter down in place. Chances are that there are drywall screws driven up through any perimeter "ledge" pieces of the base cabinets. You may also encounter glue but if you get all the screws out the damage ripping up the formica should be minimal. Even if some of the ledge pieces of the base cabs break off it shouldn't matter for the new slab. Also, check with the manufacturer of the new piece to see if you will need any additional substrate put in first: that'll depend upon how strong the new counter is (many marble types need at least a 5/8" underlay because they tend to break) and how if the new edging will cover any additional underlay. Good luck, let us know how it turns out! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, April 24, 2005 at 11:54:35 (EDT) Just found this web site--GREAT INFO- I would like to remove my formica counter top in preparation for a new granite counter top. It seems to be glued down in sections. How do I do this without damageing the base cabinets? mary fredericksburg, va USA - Saturday, April 23, 2005 at 10:49:33 (EDT) Nicky, Glitter would work fine: you might want to test an are first to figure out how much glitter to put into the paint to get the desired effect. They also may have a specific product that can be added to paint that will give you that effect. I haven't checked at Home Depot for this but I remember the paint store I used in New York City was well-stocked and had all kinds of specialty finishes. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, April 15, 2005 at 22:31:26 (EDT) I'M RENOVATING MY OLDER HOME AND WOULD LIKE TO ENCORPORATE A SPARKLE EFFECT INTO MY CEILINGS. I'M GOING TO USE A STUCCO TYPE FINISH. I WAS THINKING I COULD JUST USE A TYPE OF GLITTER. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS? THANKS NICKY PENNS GROVE, NJ USA - Friday, April 15, 2005 at 13:14:34 (EDT) Suzette, I've cleaned paint off of older hand-blown glass with some success so without seeing the your glass I'm wondering why they are scratching. Try using new single-edge blades (at least two per window) and push the razor side of the blade towards the paint on the glass. You could also apply a little paint stripper, with a small brush, on an area to test. This way is a bit messier but may loosen the paint enough to then come off easily with a razor. You may have to touch-up the painted edges after this method. Let me know if this helps. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, March 27, 2005 at 18:14:08 (EST) I have a house built in 1927 with old windows. They were recently painted and when I try to scrape the paint off of the glass w/ a razor, the razor scratches the glass. Any options? Suzette Tampa, FL USA - Saturday, March 26, 2005 at 21:07:48 (EST) Samantha, since it's not sealed then it would take stain nicely. A rich stain coat (or two) and then a couple of coats of urethane would give it a rich look. There are also all kinds of pre-bottled specialty finishes sold in paint stores for just your kind of project. You can put a metallic or stone finish or (my favorite) a crackling finish that gives the look of old peeling paint (similar to an old European door or window). Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, March 23, 2005 at 09:26:20 (EST) Matt, It's not sealed or stained. Natural. And it's approx. 1/4 inch thick. Samantha Portland, or USA - Tuesday, March 22, 2005 at 10:35:10 (EST) Samantha, Is the wood sealed/stained? How thick is it? Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, March 22, 2005 at 09:48:18 (EST) I have a cheap full-length wall mirror framed in light wood. I am wanting to incorporate it into my living room. Of course it needs to look like a million bucks. What kind of finishes could you suggest? In lieu of merely painting or staining. Anything kindof "out there". Something different, and unusual. Thanks, samantha portland, or USA - Monday, March 21, 2005 at 16:10:46 (EST) Alison, When you say "excess dry caulk" do you mean from the last caulking job, or from you that was left to dry after you applied it? Either way, it can be worked out fairly easily (the longer it's been on, though, usually the harder it gets). Use a utility blade (box cutter) to slice it carefully at the top of the base. Take it slow, as quick cuts can cut the actual base molding. Then work a small (2") rigid putty knife along the top of the base to get the excess caulk out. It most probably will not all come out, but that's okay. As long as the loose, bumpy, and/or irregular beading comes out. NOTE that the base should be primed now, before caulking. NOW TO CAULK. Use a paintable caulk, caulking gun, large sponge, and a clean rag, and have a bucket of clean water nearby. Do a wall at a time, running the new bead of caulk into the crevice above the molding along the wall. Then follow with your (wet) finger and wipe the excess off, at the same time smoothing the caulk into the crack. Follow with the wet sponge, wiping the excess off. Then one last time with the finger, smoothing it in place once more. If there wasn't enough put in the first time you'll be able to tell after the first smoothing: just add a bit more. You'll get the hang of it (as to how much is needed and how much is too much) as you go along. The bucket is to keep your sponge fairly clean. Let it cure a couple of days (48 hours) before painting. Touch up the wall color first with a brush by repainting that last inch or so along the top of the base. Wait a day and then paint the base molding... since you're doing the base last, you'll have an easier job "cutting" in a nice clean line. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, March 15, 2005 at 10:45:56 (EST) Dear Matt, We're updating our bedroom and have just started caulking around the baseboards. Unfortunately, this is our first time and it looks a bit messy. Do you know how we can remove excess dry caulking without damaging our new paint job and baseboards? Many thanks! alison Alison Toronto, ON Canada - Tuesday, March 15, 2005 at 10:31:10 (EST) Pat, There are several websites devoted to moldings but for the money Home Depot and Lowe's are your best bet. If you have a local lumberyard that sells molding profiles you might call them and ask if they carry a miterless crown system. If you have found the profile that you like and have the matching inside and outside corners, then ask the vendor (Home Depot or Lowe's) if they have the corresponding connector pieces, and if they don't, can they order them for you? If they can't, then just check out the manufacturer's name and follow-up yourself on line and see if they can help you. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, March 14, 2005 at 20:56:00 (EST) Ginny, It's not easy to remove a mirror without breaking it, but not impossible. It was most probably mounted by slapping several balls of black mastic (adhesive) on the back of mirror (usually spaced approx. 8" apart) and then once the mirror was put in place the balls flatten somewhat and create a bond with he wall. Can you get a 4" putty knife behind one of the edges? (The more edges you can get behind, the better.) If you can, slide the knife behind the mirror as far as you can and begin to carefully pry it off the wall. As you force the putty knife behind the mirror more and more you're attempting to combination-pry it off-and-break the seal of the mastic. Take it slow, but as you pull and continue to try and wedge the putty knife farther behind the mirror between it and the wall, it should start to come up. The remaining mastic will either be hardened and stuck to the wall or on the back of the mirror. If the latter is true then it will have pulled away the sheetrock a bit and some spackling will be needed. Does this help? Let me know if it works, and good luck. Matt Nikitas San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, March 14, 2005 at 20:50:40 (EST) how can you take down a mirror that is 4x5 and glued to sheetrock.We have tryed fishing line to try and break the glue but,no luck. ginny summerton, SC USA - Monday, March 14, 2005 at 13:46:03 (EST) We are doing a project of crown molding in our 2 bedroom. We are interested in buying mitreless inside corner, outside corners, and connectors. I have checked with Lowe's and Home Depot. We found some, but they dont have the connector. Where we purchase this type mitreless molding at a reasonable price or do you have a suggestion. Please advise. Thank you Pat K Lancaster, N USA - Saturday, March 12, 2005 at 21:13:11 (EST) Kathryn, Thanks for the comments. Concrete has come a LONG way in the last few years! There are a wonderful array of choices for counters and floors now, both colors, textures, and patterns. Check out the website www.elitecretesystems.com. A friend of mine used them to do her basement/playroom floor after a flooding ruined the existing wood floor. Whether they can go over your tile or not: they can tell you. Chances are probably, with some kind of sanding/grinding (to get it smooth) prep first before the bonding. I believe there are poured-on coatings and also troweled-on ones. And the color/pattern you choose can be put right in mixture. Then coated with a clear coating. Also ask about a VOC (volotile-organic-compound) FREE floor. They are just as durable and are safer going down, for you and whomever else lives there. Good luck, let me know what you decide to do. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, March 09, 2005 at 11:14:06 (EST) Hi, Matt, Love your website! Question: I have 13" x 13"ceramic tile flooring throughout my entire downstairs area of my home(approx. 1500 sq. ft). I want to do a different kind of hard surface. I love what appears to be colored cement flooring, often seem in mexican/southwest cuisine restaurants, e.g. Chipotle, El Torito, etc. It appears to be cement slab that has been scored (like a garage floor or driveway or patio), sanded, and then somehow colored or stained (not painted), and the color sealed with some kind of varnish/sealant. What, exactly is that process? Would I have to remove the existing ceramic tile or can the cement be poured over the tile; is this an expensive project? Thanks for answering. Kathryn Phoenix, az USA - Tuesday, March 08, 2005 at 22:43:08 (EST) Shay, Whether you think a brick or concrete patio would look better is entirely up to your taste and what you'd like. Either could look really nice with wood benches and maybe some surrounding landscaping or even built-in plantings. As far as recycled bricks, check your local yellow pages and also ask around: call a local masonry contractor. Most cities/towns have a place that sells recycled building materials. Good luck. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, March 07, 2005 at 10:16:56 (EST) I want to create a concrete patio with wood planter boxes that has sitting benches attached. Will this blend in together or should I use all brick. Also is there anywhere that I can purchase recycled bricks. Shay Pointer Aurora, IL USA - Friday, March 04, 2005 at 13:11:14 (EST) Mary, I'm not sure if rounded corners will necessarily date your home, although they were certainly more popular 50 or 60 years ago than today. Still, they could be making a comeback, as rounded corner bead is popping up available in many home stores. As far as molding installation, both crown and base are mitered normally at these corners: they should be installed with outside corners that end up creating just a bit of extra caulking space. There aren't rounded corner pieces readily available for crown or base moldings and the installer certainly couldn't "round" the molding as he/she installs it. The choice of rounded vs. sharp is entirely up to you: a matter of taste. It's very common in the older Victorian homes here in San Francisco but can look interesting in modern homes, since it is fairly uncommon. It doesn't create extra work for either the installer of the drywall OR the trim (molding)person. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, February 22, 2005 at 10:14:20 (EST) We are building a house and my drywall guy is recommending rounded corners and my finishing/trim guy is saying that this will date our home, but I am not sure if this is because it will be tough to install the crown and floor trim on rounded corners. What are the pro's and con's of rounded corners vs. straight corners? Thank you. Mary St. Pete, FL USA - Tuesday, February 22, 2005 at 07:01:29 (EST) Couple of pages on your site are not working, but, anyway site is good :) Judi CHICAGO, IL USA - Friday, February 18, 2005 at 08:19:54 (EST) John, You might want to get a local contractor to confirm that it's just a settlement crack due to poor planning of the actual pouring of the floor. If that's the case then you can get a decent concrete patch product at Home Depot and use that with a wide (at least 6") fiberglass joint tape. That should be sufficient to allow you to cover it with another floor, wood or tile. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, February 14, 2005 at 13:04:44 (EST) Im looking to buy a house with a crack going down the slab in the kitchen and was wanting to know if a skim coat of concrete or any other compound would allow me to level the floor backup to put down flooring. Thanks John Peoria, IL USA - Friday, February 11, 2005 at 22:49:54 (EST) Your sister recommended that I check out your website. What a great site visually and for information alike. PS - I met your mom yesterday. PPS - Kathy thought it would be fun to keep you guessing..... Chris Portsmouth, NH USA - Thursday, February 03, 2005 at 11:46:55 (EST) Andrew: It can be scraped off easily. Make sure everything's covered in plastic (including the floor). Using a spray bottle and water, saturate the texture, working in squares 3x4', to start. Give it 10 minutes or so and then using a wide scraper (8" taping knife works pretty good), scrape the stuff off. If you think the bottle will take too long to spray, you can buy a larger insecticide sprayer (plastic one at home depot for under $20). Fill that with water and it'll go much faster. IT'S A MESSY JOB, with the water dripping on you and the wet popcorn all over the place. But it saves a lot of time vs. sanding, which would be MUCH messier (with dust). And wetting it should get you down to the concrete. Good luck: let me know how it goes! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, January 31, 2005 at 17:59:28 (EST) What is the best way to refinish a painted, "popcorn" textured concrete ceiling? Our 10' high concrete ceilings have a white popcorn finish (applied in 1991, asbestos-free) that I can no longer stand the sight of. I would like to have the raw, original color and look of the concrete as our exposed finish, with a sealer of some sort to prevent concrete dust from forming. What is the best step by step process to achieve this, and how long should it take (approx. 500sf)? Thanks. Andrew New York, NY USA - Monday, January 31, 2005 at 15:49:46 (EST) There is no difference between varnish and polyurethane. Both are solvent-based (thinned with mineral spirits or paint thinner) and clear coatings. The term for varnish is older and did not contain plastic silicates (as do polyurethane) however since the advent of polyurethane varnish has pretty much become the same product. Both have an amber tint to them which color the sufrace slightly that you coat. If you want to avoid that and get a true "clear coat", try urethane, which is a latex (water) based coating. It is easier to work with and, with an additional coat can offer the same durability as a solvent-based coating. Also it doesn't smell and is easier to work with. If you are coating cigar boxes, figure on 3 coats of varnish or 4 coats of urethane. Good luck. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, January 31, 2005 at 12:09:51 (EST) Please help: What is the difference between varnish and polyurethane? I want to use the finish on cigar boxes. Thank you so much for your time. Alice alice decatur , il USA - Sunday, January 30, 2005 at 16:14:46 (EST) LeAnn, you're absolutely right!! Asbestos was the "miracle" binder that was added to so many building materials prior to 1972. Dry, airborne particles have proven to be extremely hazardous when breathed in. Even when wet, the asbestos can be inhaled and so, when in doubt, it's always good to consult a local asbestos-removal company for analysis, advice, and/or help. See my article about ASBESTOS in the TOOL BOX portion of this site. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, January 05, 2005 at 20:17:52 (EST) Be careful, Popcorn concrete ceilings may have asbestos in them. LeeAnn Chicago, Il USA - Wednesday, January 05, 2005 at 17:47:01 (EST) Was searching internet and found your great site. Congratulations!Nice Site! German CHICAGO, IL USA - Tuesday, January 04, 2005 at 06:11:36 (EST) Brett, In the past when I've installed a base or a crown and come across the older curved cornerbead (common in Victorian style), I have run the molding around the corner as I would with a squared corner: treating it like a 90 degree turn. The two pieces would extend out just a bit from the curved part and meet as an outside miter with their 45 degree cuts. The resulting little "hole" (gap) at the top can be filled with spackle. Once all the nail holes are filled/sanded and the molding is caulked at the wall, the finished painted product will look very nice, indeed. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, December 30, 2004 at 15:10:31 (EST) How do you cut base moulding to go around rounded corner bead? Brett Apple Valley , MN USA - Wednesday, December 29, 2004 at 22:31:31 (EST) Talk to other contractors. Only someone looking at your specific situation can tell you why and/or if you need a new slab. Bring at least three (at different times, of course)to look at the crack in your foundation and ask them what caused it, what would happen if you left it, and what about options. Good luck: let us know what happens. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, December 28, 2004 at 10:54:50 (EST) I purchased a home in Sept with a cement foundation. When I was having new flooring installed they found a large crack in the slab. According to one contractor it will cost $9,000 to replace the whole slab. That does not include leveling the ground. Is there another option that I might try? E Walker Pittsburg, Ca USA - Tuesday, December 28, 2004 at 01:08:18 (EST) Nice! I will come back again. Schulz Corey Bloomington, ILL USA - Friday, December 17, 2004 at 11:33:16 (EST) George, There are several options to repairing in SF: most are located in the SOMA (South of Market) area and are listed in the yellow pages. Though it sounds like a straight-forward repair that glue and clamps could achieve, it would be difficult to assess without seeing it. Also, since the movers caused it, aren't they responsible for the expense of repair? Then it would be more prudent to bring it to a professional so that a clean restoration is achieved. Let me know what happens. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, December 15, 2004 at 10:33:35 (EST) I recently moved. The moving company broke one of the backs of my dinning room chairs. The chair is black laquer. The top of the chair back is split. It has a cushion insert in the back. It is a clean split. How can I repair this or where can I go in the San Francisco Bay area to get it repaired? Thank you George Spayd San Francisco, Ca USA - Monday, December 13, 2004 at 13:20:16 (EST) Rick, I don't think you'll have much luck on the mirror mastic with a heat gun and it might damage the mirror. If you can get under the edges of it with a rigid putty knife, try working around the perimeter by sliding the knife under the edge. As you work around edge you should be able to slowly pry the mirror away from the mastic spots, little by little, until it should pop off. The mastic will both be left on the back of mirror (by taking portions of the wall/drywall off) and on the wall. If you can't get leverage under the edges (because the mirror is set in a recess), then the best way to get it out is to break it out (goggles, gloves, and care!). Good luck.... let me know if this helps. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, December 12, 2004 at 21:48:46 (EST) I need to get a mirror off the wall that has the black mastic holding it on. Should I use a heat gun to soften the mastic? What is the best was to accomplish this? Thanks Rick Brooklin, On Canada - Sunday, December 12, 2004 at 16:42:50 (EST) Thanks! I will let you know how it turns out and will probably have plenty of questions along the way! Thanks again for your speedy reply! Heather Heather C. Boca Raton, FL USA - Thursday, December 09, 2004 at 10:43:31 (EST) Heather, you most certain can install crown molding over a popcorn ceiling. If the texture is very dense and high it might be a good idea to mark the horizontal projection around the room (where the molding, when set in place, will sit on the ceiling) and then scrape the texture. Once the crown in in place you will have a bit of caulking, whether you scraped it or not. But the finished painted result will look great. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, December 07, 2004 at 12:12:11 (EST) Mary: Can you unscrew the broken portion of the flange from the waste, maybe using a set of channel lock pliers and holding the waste with a wrench? If the PVC was set in with cement, then the only alternative is to cut the pipe below the fitting. In that case, I would strongly recommend calling a plumber: the whole thing could be taken care of for around $100, and he'll probably reset the toilet, too and connect the supply line. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, December 07, 2004 at 12:09:16 (EST) Hi, We have a townhouse with popcorn ceiling- can you put crown moulding on this type of ceiling? Thanks, Heather C. Heather C. Boca Raton, FL USA - Monday, December 06, 2004 at 14:59:42 (EST) My PVC toilet flange broke when taking up my toilet in a upstairs bathroom. It was glued down so how do I get it seperated from the drain pipe with out cracking the pipe Mary suffolk, va USA - Sunday, December 05, 2004 at 20:26:49 (EST) Kevin, You definitely can. Actually, it's better if you DON'T lift the sink out. Clean out the old caulk with a razor blade and putty knife, careful not to scratch the countertop. When the crevice and area is dry and clean, use either a latex tub/tile caulk or a 100% silicone caulk. Let me tell you the differences. The latex is easier to work with, because you can clean the excess off with water/a wet sponge. It's much easier to get a nice, clean, sealed crevice. It will discolor over time, though. The silicone is a far superior sealer, as it is silicone-based vs. water, and will take a much longer time to yellow or discolor. It's a bit messy to work with because you can't wipe the excess off with a wet sponge. If using the silicone have a bit of mineral spirits (paint thinner) around to help clean up excess caulking around the rim of the sink. Be careful not to use too much of the spirits, though, as it will also thin the actual silicone and cause the edges to come up a little. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, December 05, 2004 at 11:57:28 (EST) Nice site! AmericanWolf - Sunday, December 05, 2004 at 07:04:09 (EST) Is there any way to recaulk around a drop-in bathroom sink (marble counter top) without lifting the sink out? The old caulking is "creeping" out in some areas and is cracked and falling apart in others. The joint is fairly small so I fear the only "right" way is to lift the sink completely out. I hope I'm wrong... Kevin San Diego, CA USA - Saturday, December 04, 2004 at 15:37:54 (EST) Keep up the good work! Hinkle Richard Kennebunk, ME USA - Monday, November 29, 2004 at 21:42:10 (EST) Hello, Kathy: Polyurethane, which is a solvent-based plastic coating, will give you the most durable finish for your floors. Tung oil is used more for furniture. Plan on three coats of polyurethane, with a light sanding between coats. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, October 25, 2004 at 19:49:53 (EDT) Hi, Just found this site. What a great site. I have a question. We have an old farmhouse and would like to refinish the hard woodfloors in the kitchen area. Would it be better to use tung oil or polyurthane? I would like to use something that we would be able to maintain the easiest since it is a high traffic area and we have house pets. Thanks in advance Kathy Kathy Saylorsburg, PA USA - Monday, October 25, 2004 at 14:01:10 (EDT) Like what you've done to the place. It's always cool to keep poppin in from time to time and see what new and unusual stuff you got a goin. See ya! Mike Mike Atlanta, Georgia US - Sunday, October 17, 2004 at 15:28:43 (EDT) Good work! Keep it up! Thanks! Jason. Jason Hughes Farley Wells, Michigan United States - Friday, October 15, 2004 at 03:16:04 (EDT) Becky, What is the size of your crown molding? And are you using a chop/miter saw, or a miter box? To get the proper inside mitered (corner) cut, set the saw at 45 degrees and hold your molding upside down and backwards against the back fence for the cut. Practice with a couple of scrap pieces to get it right... it is confusing until you figure it out. Click on the Grand Finishes Carpentry book where it links you to Barnes & Noble: you should be able to view pages there. Good luck. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Sunday, October 10, 2004 at 16:26:31 (EDT) HELP!!!!! Having problems putting up crown molding corner cuts are killing me Becky C Pardeeville, Wi USA - Sunday, October 10, 2004 at 14:42:29 (EDT) Vivian, Unfortunately you can't hide electrical (or plumbing) in concrete walls, IE. you can't bury them. Any pipes or conduit has to run along the surface of it. Your contractor's suggestion is the only alternative to having to see the pipes, namely framing out and covering the concrete surfaces with drywall. This will also enclose the channels that carry the electrical curcuits. There are various "surface mount" options, though, for running wire, that might not be as unattractive as what you have now. Can your contractor put you in touch with an electrician? He/she should be able to offer you options. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, October 06, 2004 at 10:22:58 (EDT) I live in a condo that has concrete floors and ceilings. Ceiling currently have popcorn finish and I have no overhead lighting on any of the 8' ceilings, however two rooms have ceiling fans that have ugly conduit running up the walls and across the ceilings. I want to get rid of the popcorn and add overhead lighting and certainly would prefer not to have the conduits running up the walls. I have removed the popcorn from one of the ceilings already, but the contractor is saying that instead of removing it, they would install channeling and drywall over it and install small halogen fixtures. Even though he said this would only take up 2", I am afraid that would feel clostrophobic if the ceiling was lowered. Has anyone out there had this done? If so, do you like it? Any other ideas of what I could do or is track lighting with conduits up the wall my only other option? Vivian Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA - Monday, October 04, 2004 at 16:27:59 (EDT) Hi! Just wanted to thank you for all the work you put in this site. It looks great! Thanks! Jeff Stephens Orlando, Florida United States - Wednesday, October 06, 2004 at 06:07:34 (EDT) Juanita, You can coat it with an expoxy or alkyd-based paint. This will give you the option of changing the color. However, no re-coating of any counter surface (especially if it is a water surface, IE. near a sink) is a great idea. Anyway. Clean the surface thoroughly, paint on the surface, allow to dry according to directions of the product and then re-coat. Once dry, then recaulk around sink and any gaps. Good luck. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, September 02, 2004 at 09:50:22 (EDT) How can I change the color of a formica kitchen counter top without taking the whole thing off? I have seen this done on TV but cannot remember the steps. Juanita Bastin Somerset, KY USA - Wednesday, September 01, 2004 at 15:11:05 (EDT) Margie, At the very least they were coated with a varnish or polyurethane (plastic seal coat). When you say re-finish, what do you want to do? Strip them down and make them look fresh again? If so, then applying a gel paint stripper by hand is messy by effective. Follow instructions and then scrape off bubbling finish with putty knife and steel wool. Several coats usually does the trick. Then follow with sanding and re-coating - either with stain and polyurethane or just polyurethane. There is a great product out there called PEEL AWAY: it seems pricey by saves so much time when stripping paint or finishes off of surfaces, and it's far less messy. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, August 23, 2004 at 10:16:24 (EDT) I want to refinish 2 wooden walls in our den and not change the appearance of their original finish. Unfortunately we don't know what was done to them when the house was built about 25 years ago. It appears to have had some sort of "oil" finish. What steps are taken with linseed oil, tung oil, or whatever you suggest? Margie Americus, GA USA - Wednesday, August 18, 2004 at 21:47:09 (EDT) Often those old chests are constructed with many layers of what is now considered "cardboard": in other words, paper. And so special care should be taken when attempted to refinish them. Jessie Culver City , NV USA - Wednesday, August 11, 2004 at 09:36:35 (EDT) What is the chest made of? And what kind of finish does it have (varnish, paint, stain)? Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, August 10, 2004 at 10:43:42 (EDT) I am refinishing an old chest that was my great grandmother's. It has black spots on the top. Some are circles the size of a glass others are just spots. Any suggestions on how to remove. S. Cooke Alton, IL USA - Monday, August 09, 2004 at 12:27:41 (EDT) Varnish and polyurethane, when sold in stores, are virtually the same product: solvent-based coatings that are thinned by mineral spirits. The rules of application, clean-up, and care are the same for both. Be sure to lightly sand and then clean the surface thoroughly (that you're going to apply the varnish to), and you should be all set. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, August 02, 2004 at 10:37:33 (EDT) what is the difference between varnish and polyurthanei'm redoing an old floor we oiled it varnished it is it o.k to polyurthane it as well i want to seal it good kids you no carlad1@telus.net lacombe, alta canada - Sunday, August 01, 2004 at 00:22:06 (EDT) Ron: the crown molding sounds huge! Even to cope the molding you'll have to be able to make 45 degree inside miter cuts on the piece that will be coped, and that will require a slide-miter compound saw. Mine has an 8 1/2" blade and I can only get a clean cut on a 12" molding. What about using outside and inside corner blocks? That would allow you to only have to make 90 degree cuts (butt joints) at each inside and outside corner. The company that makes the crown may have them: ask if the profile is offered as a "miterless crown". If not, then you could construct simple (or ornate) boxes for each corner: they would have to be at least as tall and deep as the the crown. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, August 02, 2004 at 10:49:51 (EDT) INSTALLATION OF PLASTER OF PARIS CROWN MOLDING WITH A 14-1/4" PROJECTION,.EXTREMELY DETAILED,SO MY QUESTION IS ,. DO YOU COPE ? TO BIG TO MITER ON THE CHOPSAW.I JUST GOT THE PACKAGE FROM BACK EAST . I OPENED THE CRATE , LOOKED AT MY PARTNER AND SAID "THIS IS GOING TO BE FUN".SO I DECIDED TO DO SOME RESEARCH AND CAME ACROSS YOU.ANY TIPS ? RON Ron Rohnert Park, CA USA - Thursday, July 29, 2004 at 23:44:47 (EDT) Shallon, generally to remove texture from walls you have to float or "skim-coat" over it, to achieve a smooth finish. You'd do this with joint compound and at least a 12" taping knife, and sand between coats. If the texture was sprayed onto drywall (newer construction?), then it may possibly be able to be scraped off: first by wetting it with a spray bottle or sponge and then scraped with a 6 to 8" taping knife. However, if the surfaces were done prior to 1972 then chances are the accoustical texture has asbestos in it and you don't want to mess with that. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, August 02, 2004 at 10:55:16 (EDT) How do you remove the texture off plaster walls?? Shallon Galt, IA USA - Thursday, July 29, 2004 at 14:10:48 (EDT) Carrie, when did the leak start? Water found under the fridge AND inside is not a good sign. If the icemaker was hooked up I would say that is the obvious culprit. However it has never been connected? Plastic tubing, by the way tends to leak at the connections far more often than copper, although the problem with copper is once the connection is made and then actually pushing the fridge back in place, you may create a leak, as copper piping is rigid. All that said, I would most definitely get a plumber over there pronto to determine the source of the leak(s) and stop them from happening. At the same time have him (her) hook up your icemaker: it's a quick process and since a plumber will be there, pulling the fridge out anyway, this is a good time to have it done. Good luck: let me know what happens. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, July 19, 2004 at 10:51:10 (EDT) Dear Matt: I have a leak coming from under my refridgerator and sometimes from within. The solid shelves of the unit are always covered with water as well. Although it has an ice maker, it has never been hooked up and the hoses are plastic as opposed to copper. Also Our current home is now plumbed for an ice-maker and I would appreciate any help you can give me in hooking up our ice maker for the first time. Thank you so much for all the info I have already gleaned from your site, Carrie Carrie Ogden, UT USA - Friday, July 16, 2004 at 11:55:54 (EDT) Jenny, All POLYurethanes (which are solvent-based) have an amber tint in them, and so will have a bit of a yellow-ness once applied to wood. Water-based products, called URETHANES, have no amber tint in them and leave the wood in it's natural state: there is no "yellow" look when you use it. Ask at your local paint store for an exterior urethane (water-based). They hold up as well as solvent-based polyurethanes, but usually require an additional coat. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, July 14, 2004 at 10:38:23 (EDT) Cathy, Regarding your old trunk: I would walk in to a furniture refinisher and describe it and ask for some advice. Using shellac on the paper sounds like a good idea but I would try to confirm this first with someone who restores old furniture first. Good luck! Let me know what you find out. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, July 14, 2004 at 10:34:26 (EDT) I am looking for an exterior polyurthane that does not yellow when applied over white or light color painted wood. Do you know of any? Thanks Jenny Clarksville, TN USA - Monday, July 12, 2004 at 12:52:45 (EDT) i have an old trunk that still has the original paper and lithograph inside it does have a few stain spots but the rest is in fairly good shape and i want to preserve it. is there anything i can do to get the stain out? and what can i use to preserve the paper? i was thinking of coating it with shelac. cathy goldsboro, nc USA - Sunday, July 11, 2004 at 18:22:06 (EDT) How old are the chairs, Mary? And what have you used to clean them? If you'd like to take the time to strip them and refinish them completely, do a web search on "furniture refinishing" or check out the library or Barnes & Noble: it's a detailed process and there are many books on the subject. Could be that using some TSP (Spic n' Span) or Mineral Spirits to clean them may do the trick. Then you could follow with recoating / sealing them with a coat of polyurethane or urethane. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Thursday, July 08, 2004 at 09:26:44 (EDT) what do I need to do to refinish wooden chairs that have already been stained. They feel sticky and dirty when humid out. I have tried cleaning and cleaning. mary USA - Thursday, July 01, 2004 at 15:37:58 (EDT) Lois, Someone has asked about Flexall before on this forum, having seen it on The Christopher Lowell Show. Flexall is a fast-drying plaster/filler product, similar to plaster of paris, but un-sandable once dry. At least that is the only Flexall that I know, and it can be found at Home Depot. If this isn't the product you saw on the show, check the Christopher Lowell website, and do a search of his shows. There's a link on the home page of my site, in the introductory paragraph. Good luck. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Wednesday, June 16, 2004 at 09:43:29 (EDT) Where can I find the Flexall product that was shown on the Christopher Lowell show? I have done all the searches on all the engines and come up with nothing.. Lois Lakemont, Ga USA - Tuesday, June 15, 2004 at 16:32:10 (EDT) Sue, It sounds like you've got all the bases covered (sanded, and then cleaned.. thoroughly). The solvents, especially the alchohol, could have left a residue on the surfaces, which, since the varnish is a solvent (thinner) base, could and would repel the spray enough to make it bubble. What stage are you at now? And why are you spraying? Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Monday, June 14, 2004 at 09:30:28 (EDT) And just to let you know we are spraying it oon and sanded it prior to spraying it. we first wiped it down with soap and water, tsp, than paint thinner. Than alcohol...we thought we had everthing covered....just wanted to add this to from the prior post it. Sue whitelaw, wi USA - Sunday, June 13, 2004 at 19:23:50 (EDT) We are re-finishing our cabinets and using a fast drying varnish- catalyst varnish. It bubbles when we spray it on and the paint store said it was due to furnisher polish and that we should wipe it off with alcohol. we did that and it still bubbles....what do you suggest Sue Whitelaw, Wi USA - Sunday, June 13, 2004 at 12:36:34 (EDT) Joanna, 1. Give the surfaces a slight "tooth" by running over them with some sandpaper. Then clean them thoroughly with TSP (Spic N Span works good, too). 2. Use a good quality (Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo, for instance) oil-based paint and prime (first coat) the surfaces. Make sure you keep the area ventilated, and wear a respirator. 3. A second coat with the same paint should finish them off nicely. What part of the country do you live? Let me know if you have any other questions.... Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, June 05, 2004 at 11:28:21 (EDT) Hi Matt, I watch diy all the time... I have a question and would appreciate it very much if you could help me out. I have dark colored stained kitchen cabinets they have some what of a shine.. How do I go about painting them and what kind of paint would you suggest.. Thanks Joanna USA - Saturday, June 05, 2004 at 11:08:22 (EDT) What kind of counter do you have now? Flex-all is a fast-drying plaster product: I don't understand how it might have been used to "cover" an existing counter. To put in new counters the old almost always has to come up. Are they formica now? Take them off to the base cabinets. If you want to put a slab (single-piece) stone of some kind, it will either be put directly on the base cabinets or on top of an "underlayment", like a sheet of plywood. Either way, you'll need the company that makes the slabs to come out and do a template and install the piece. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Friday, June 04, 2004 at 09:52:50 (EDT) I want to cover existing counter tops with a durable hard stone look surface. I saw Christopher Lowel use a product called Flexall. Would this work on laminate counter tops ? If so where can i find this product ? Or can you offer a better idea? Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!! Diane Williamsville, ny USA - Thursday, June 03, 2004 at 23:22:23 (EDT) Thank you Matt. The windows are open and the fan is running! Thanks for the suggestion. Mary MN USA - Thursday, May 06, 2004 at 13:17:02 (EDT) Mary, Varnishes and polyurethane coatings can take as long as 4 weeks to cure (when the finish has completely oxidized and is nice and hard), and even longer if humid conditions persist. The best way to speed along the oxidation process is to lower the humidity level. What part of the country are you in? Can you run air conditioning in the kitchen for a day or two, and see how that affects the smell factor? If that's not an option, then at least having the windows open with a fan or two to circulate the air will also help things along. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, April 27, 2004 at 13:05:48 (EDT) I had a pantry cabinet made for my kitchen and it has a very strong varnish smell. I'm afraid to fill it with food items as I don't want the food to pick up the varnish odor. Is there anything I can do to get rid of the varnish odor (fast) besides just letting it sit and air out? Any reply would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Mary Rochester, MN USA - Monday, April 26, 2004 at 15:14:02 (EDT) Sarah: just what kind of texture do you have, if you can tell? Is is sprayed on, or was it applied with a knife? The sprayed on is usually fine (generally reserved for ceilings) and has an "accoustical" look to it. Wetting it (with a water spray bottle or sponge) will allow you to scrape the worst of it off. Then you could follow with skim-coating it with joint compound and a couple of large joint knives to smooth it the surface. Depending upon how textured the walls are, if you go around and scrape off the points and edges, you could float out a skim-coating on the surfaces. It would proabably require several coats, followed by a sanding and priming to get your walls smooth. Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, April 20, 2004 at 12:04:12 (EDT) Jack: Is it too late to respond to your rounded corners question? (Apologies: I moved cross-country and was off line for two weeks!) Just how ROUNDED are they? If it is an old-fashioned rounded corner bead (a slight rounding only at the corner), then mitering both sides of the base to meet just beyond the corner, each cut at an outside 45 degree miter, is the typical way to finish it. If the curve is also in the actual wall, then the base will have to contour to it. There are many kinds of flexible molding available today. Made from plastic or polyurethane, most are paintable although some can even be stained. Check OUTWATER PLASTICS; they should have a website. Or ask at Home Depot, Lowes, or your local molding supply place. Good luck! Matt San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, April 20, 2004 at 11:58:18 (EDT) HOW DO YOU GET SHEETROCK TETURE OFF OF A WALL? SARAH SAPULPA, OK USA - Tuesday, April 13, 2004 at 16:42:10 (EDT) I have rounded corners on the wall where I am replacing my baseboards. My baseboards are 4" in height. How do I cut the baseboards to fit around the rounded corner of the wall. Anything help would be appreciated. jack USA - Monday, March 22, 2004 at 02:53:58 (EST) To Dave in Pheonix, I noticed you and some other people were asking how to remove a toilet flange. The most common response was "get a plumber", however, if you're dealing with PVC or ABS then there is a tool called a Toilet Flange Cutter and Remover which does the job by chucking it onto a hand drill. It's simply a hand drill attachment that cuts out toilet flanges. Works great. I realize this response comes late in the game for you but if you need more infor just let me know. Perhaps others may need the tool also. Sethen Aibonito, PR USA - Saturday, March 20, 2004 at 10:40:49 (EST) CB, Home Depots carry the miterless crown selection, and there are several in your area: N. Post Rd., N. High School Rd., E. Southport Rd., and Corporation Drive. If their selection isn't extensive enough, look into any local millworks/lumber store near you. Matt New York, NY USA - Wednesday, March 17, 2004 at 07:42:26 (EST) Ernie, Do you mean wipe a gel stain over a polyurethane coat? If so, the answer is no, because the stain will have nothing to adhere to, as the polyurethane coating has already sealed the surface in question. If you mean apply a gel stain over a polyurethane molding, the answer is also no, for the same reason. Is this helpful? Matt New York, NY USA - Wednesday, March 17, 2004 at 07:36:20 (EST) Can you apply Gel Stain over a wipe on poly? Thanks Ernie Cambridge, MA USA - Monday, March 15, 2004 at 06:50:48 (EST) Where can I purchase miterless crown moulding systems in the Indy area? C B Thomas Indianapolis, In USA - Friday, March 12, 2004 at 16:38:53 (EST) Hal, Is the wal1 / tile around the tub loose? If that is the case, then there's a problem there: the walls will have to be ripped out (to the studs) and re-done... backerboard and then tile. It could be that you didn't clean out the old caulk thoroughly? Or that the crevice (where you were to put the caulk) was not clean, free of grease, soap film? Let me know if any of these apply. Matt New York, NY USA - Thursday, February 12, 2004 at 18:26:43 (EST) What kind of caulk should I use in my bathroom to seal the tub? Everything I've tried keeps cracking. Hal Bayonne, NJ USA - Thursday, February 12, 2004 at 10:06:50 (EST) Audrey, you can remove the accoustical sprayed-on texture on your ceiling, but you are right to be wary of possible asbestos. Asbestos was added to practically all building materials up until 1972, when it was banned once the dangers of breathing in the airborne fibers were discovered. Spraying water (with a water bottle) onto small sections at a time and then scraping the wet material off the ceilng is one way to do it in an effort to prevent any dust from becoming airborne. You can drywall right over it: using a 1/2" or even a 1/4" drywall (if the overall ceiling surface is fairly flat). Hanging drywall and then taping and sanding is not easy, and doing it on a ceiling is the most challenging of all. Talk to a local contractor if you can and get an idea of what it would cost to have it done professionally. Let me know what you decide to do. Matt New York, NY USA - Friday, January 02, 2004 at 08:01:15 (EST) I just purchased a home built in the sixties. The problem is the ceilings have that sprayed popcorn texture.I would like to remove it, however I don't relish the thought of all that mess, and if it contains asbestos the cost of hiring someone. I know its a short cut, but can a piece of drywall be applied to the surface instead? Audrey upland, Calif USA - Tuesday, December 30, 2003 at 04:46:41 (EST)           { Back to Page 2 } { Continue to Page 4 }
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