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Brenda, I checked on line for FLEXALL products but could find no site for it or it's manufacturer, Custom Building Products. However, I can usually find Flexall products at the Home Depot: do you have one near you?
Matt
New York, NY USA - Monday, December 08, 2003 at 07:52:43 (EST)
I want to buy some Flexall flexible multipurpose filler. I can't find it in any of the hardware stores locally. Does anyone know where I could order it from?
Brenda Vaughan
Odessa, Tx USA - Saturday, December 06, 2003 at 23:39:09 (EST)
Fred, have you clear-coated the stain varnish/urethane/poly)? I think Mike is right: the stain has now effectively sealed in the areas that the glue has been absorbed into the wood. The best way to resolve this problem is probably to strip off the stain and start over. Since the "glue spots" are difficult to see when the wood is unstained (hence why you missed them before you stained), try and remember where they were before you remove the stain. Use a paint stripper. This will also help to get out the glue stains, too. Still, finish with sanding your project thoroughly: where the glue stains were, and all other wood areas, so that any "film" on the surface of the raw wood is gone, or at least even. When you're ready to start staining the piece again, test a small place somewhere where you remember a glue stain had shown through the first time, and if this goes well then continue to restain your project.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Thursday, November 20, 2003 at 10:48:05 (EST)
Unfortunately the stain has effectively sealed in areas where the glue was absorbed. What kind of piece is it? Are the joined spots really noticeable?
Mike
Salt Lake City, UT USA - Thursday, November 20, 2003 at 09:44:09 (EST)
I biscuit jointed four 6 inch wide pieces of makore(african cherry) and didn't do a good enough job wiping the glue off in the joints. now i have light colored marks showing where the glue is after staining. is there any way to fix this. thanks
fred lackmance
victoria, bc canada - Wednesday, November 19, 2003 at 23:30:15 (EST)
Jessica: There are water-based clear finishes (called urethane) and solvent-based ones (called polyurethane). Polyurthane will coat a latex-based paint fine, and will actually be a better bet for a surface that will get water on it during use. Realize, though, that no coating will be a permanent water-barrier. The surface will have to be re-done every six months or so. Find yourself a good-grade polyurethane/clear coating/boat varnish. Clean the surface well with a tack cloth and apply the polyurethane with a pure-bristle brush. Allow to dry, then give it a light sanding and cleaning with the tack cloth: then another coat. Repeat the process with a third (and a fourth one won't hurt!) coat. Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Sunday, November 16, 2003 at 10:53:14 (EST)
Yes i am glad i found you. My question is what kind of polyurothane do i use over a painted vanity sink area. we didn't have the money to replace the old one so i revamped it with a faux finish but want it to last until we can buy a new one. i thought of using the one that you would finish a staining project with but my husband said their is one made for latex paint but not as hard of a finish. this area will be receiving a lot of exposure to water and i want it to stay looking nice and protected. please help. thanks
jessica
fort pierce, fl USA - Saturday, November 15, 2003 at 02:19:23 (EST)
Stephanie, Anaglypta, an embossed wallcovering, needs a solid surface to adhere to. An accoustical "popcorn" ceiling is too irregular... you'll have to take the popcorn stuff off, first. It can be removed, although it's a messy job. Cover the floor and furniture with plastic. Dampen the ceiling with a spray bottle full of water, working on small squares (maybe 2'x2') at a time. Scrape the popcorn stuff off with a large taping knife: 6" or 8". Once the material is off then the ceiling can be primed for the application of the Anaglypta. ONE IMPORTANT POINT: If the accoustical material dates back before 1972 it may contain asbestos. Read about this in TOOLBOX section of this site.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Saturday, November 08, 2003 at 07:37:54 (EST)
Is it possible to put Anaglypta over a popcorn ceiling? Thank you
Stephanie
MO USA - Friday, November 07, 2003 at 01:00:59 (EST)
YES! Rolling the flat surface of doors is good for a couple of reasons. It saves time. And the roller distributes the paint more evenly than a brush would. HOWEVER, it is important to follow each section that you roll with the brush: use little or no paint on the brush and go from top-to-bottom (or bottom-to-top, or side-to-side... the same direction). You are in effect "brushing out" the rolled area, thus giving it a smooth finished look.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Thursday, November 06, 2003 at 13:45:14 (EST)
I was over at my friend's house last week and watched your painting tips segment on "Mornings on CN8". Interesting... can you really roll paint on doors and have it look good? Thanks!
Christine
Washington, DC USA - Tuesday, November 04, 2003 at 12:38:42 (EST)
That black stuff that's used to hold mirror up to the wall is indeed a tenacious substance: very difficult to remove. The best way is to use a rigid scraper and/or a hammer and cold chisel. Basically you want to scrape or chisel it off the wall. Figure that you will have to follow with spackle and float out the wall where the hard mastic blobs were removed. A couple of coats of spackle, light sanding, and then primed, and the wall will be ready for paint or wallpaper. As far as framing out the large mirror, is it installed on the wall now? If not, do that. Then miter a nice molding that you've chosen and install it around the mirror, like a frame... right there on the wall. For such a large mirror this is the best way to achieve a framed look without trying to actually frame the mirror panel, which would require the frame being able to hold such a heavy load.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Monday, November 03, 2003 at 16:55:00 (EST)
I have two questions: 1. I had three large panel mirrors removed. They were secured with mastic. Is there a product for removing the mastic or should I begin replastering? 2. I now have (1) 48 x 72 mirror which I will frame myself. While I have some ideas as to how to accomplish this I am looking for other ideas which may be better. Thanks
Evette Blue-Williams
Harbor City, CA USA - Saturday, November 01, 2003 at 20:56:19 (EST)
I have two questions: 1. I had three large panel mirrors removed. They were secured with mastic. Is there a product for removing the mastic or should I begin replastering? 2. I now have (1) 48 x 72 mirror which I will frame myself. While I have some ideas as to how to accomplish this I am looking for other ideas which may be better. Thanks
Evette Blue-Williams
Harbor City, CA USA - Saturday, November 01, 2003 at 20:48:55 (EST)
Matt, I just saw you on Comcast's "Mornings on CN8" talking about stripping the paint off of door hardware. It was very interesting... I never thought to actually take the door hardware off of the door to do this: it looked like it would make the job easier.
John
Wilmington, DE USA - Wednesday, October 29, 2003 at 06:35:19 (EST)
Karen, This is a wonderfully easy system for installing molding, as there are no mitered corners to cut. It also looks a bit more elegant than regular crown or base moldings. Home Depot carries this line.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Thursday, October 09, 2003 at 05:58:17 (EDT)
On a recent Christopher Lowell show you showed a moulding product that had mitered corners already. Where can I find it in the Atlanta area?
Karen Issac
USA - Wednesday, October 08, 2003 at 20:59:59 (EDT)
David, I think you need to call a plumber. If the flange is indeed broken the it usually has to be replaced (cannot be repaired). And that could mean that a section would have to be removed. Even it could be repaired then it would most probably require soddering: either way, get a plumber over to look at it right away.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Tuesday, October 07, 2003 at 05:43:51 (EDT)
How do I replace a broken toilet flange?
David
Phoenix, AZ USA - Saturday, October 04, 2003 at 20:38:32 (EDT)
Carolyn, Flex-all is sold in most ACE and other hardware stores. It's more of a filler/binder product. What do you mean, use it as a tile floor?
Matt
New York, NY USA - Thursday, October 02, 2003 at 06:23:12 (EDT)
Where can I buy Flexall? Can I use it to make a "tile" floor in my bathroom on top of linoleum? Thanks. Carolyn
Carolyn Brown
Durham, nc USA - Monday, September 29, 2003 at 11:01:55 (EDT)
Thank you so much for your input. Good luck with your chandelier hanging!
Sherry
Ephrata, PA USA - Monday, September 29, 2003 at 16:02:07 (EDT)
Sherry, OKAY: I see what you mean by a PENDANT LIGHT. I am actually going over to a client's house within the next hour to do exactly that: hang a 25 lb. chandelier from somethere near the "center" of the livingroom ceiling. They will run a looped chain from the junction box (which isn't near the center of the ceiling) to where we locate the new light. Our main focus will be to be sure that where we install the hook for the chandelier can hold the weight: by locating anchoring it into the ceiling joist. That should be your focus, too. Additionally, though, it sounds as if you want to avoid running the exterior strip (wire) from the source... so you're going to have to put in a new junction box (if there isn't one where you want to hang the light). You ought to get an electrician to be sure you can install a secure new box, affixed to a ceiling joist. If there IS a junction box where you would like to hang the light, then follow the steps include in the light and you should be fine! Good Luck!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Saturday, September 27, 2003 at 12:11:34 (EDT)
When I mention pendant lights, I just mean a light that hangs from the ceiling. Since the recessed lights are already in the ceiling and I don't want to go to the expense of rewiring a "strip" light above the mirror I thought I would use the area where the recessed lights are and just put a light from the ceiling there. I realize most people enjoy recessed lighting, but I know I am "different", just ask my family!Thank you for your assistance.
Sherry
Ephrata, PA USA - Friday, September 26, 2003 at 16:08:33 (EDT)
Sherry, what do you mean by "pendant" lights? I'm a bit surprised that you DON'T like the recessed lights as they are usually what people prefer as they offer a more appealing illumination in the room, though if you look up at them I guess they can be kind of ugly.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Friday, September 26, 2003 at 08:14:47 (EDT)
Dear Matt, I just saw you on The Christopher Lowell show and was thrilled to hear about the new moldings that you do not have to miter. (I'm not quite ready for that project) I do have a question for you and hopefully you will have some guidance for me. I moved into a townhouse. In the downstairs and upstairs bathrooms they have installed recessed lighting. I would like to change this so that I can place attractive pendant lights instead of the ugly can lighting. Do you have any suggestions? I have asked several people and they have suggested getting an electrician and others just look at me funny. I would like to skip the expense of an electrician and do it myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!
Sherry
Ephrata, PA USA - Thursday, September 25, 2003 at 16:19:36 (EDT)
Tammie, check out your local lumber yard to see if they offer interior molding profiles. Large home stores, like Home Depot and Lowes also have them and you might get a better deal per foot, though it's more pick-and-serve yourself. Do a search on the internet for fireplace surrounds, and see what different companies offer what: there are all levels of products out there, from finished to unfinished, ornate to plain. As far as popcorn ceiling AND walls?? Do you want to get rid of it? If so, how old is it? (Note: check out my article on ASBESTOS in the "Toolbox", as asbestos was used in practically all building materials made before 1972 - especially sprayed-on accoustical stuff - and is better left undisturbed.)
Matt
New York, NY USA - Friday, September 26, 2003 at 08:11:58 (EDT)
I would love some advice, I'm doing a surround for our fireplace (it's arched ) and I'm going towards the English Garden style. I would alo like to put molding on the ceilings and floor. I'm woundering where to buy molding, maybe miterless, and maybe a surround for fireplace at a fair price. Also,we have textured walls and ceilings , what do I do with that? Thank you, Tammie
Tammie Peterson
Finland, Minnesota USA - Tuesday, September 23, 2003 at 16:17:12 (EDT)
I agree with Matt: call a plumber. Even though they seem expensive it's a small price to pay for somebody who is qualified to fix water problems. If you tried to fix it yourself and made a mistake you could have water spraying out of some leak and then you'd really have to get a plumber there, fast!
Brian
San Francisco, CA USA - Saturday, August 30, 2003 at 07:52:09 (EDT)
Charles, 95% of the time when water is seen creeping out from under the refrigerator, it's a leak from the icemaker connection. A plumber will probably run you between $75 - $100 an hour, and an hour should easily cover a visit to correct this problem. However let me explain why the leak may be occurring so that you're in the know, while the plumber is fixing the problem. This connection should have it's own shut-off, which would be located under the nearest sink at the cold water sink shut-off. He will turn it off (clock-wise) and pull the refrige out to see behind it (where the connection to the icemaker is located). Most of the time it is a simple matter of a slight tightening to stop it from leaking. The problem usually arises, though, with compressed copper fittings (the ones generally used for icemakers)... in that they move when the fridge is moved back into place, and even a slight move can cause it to begin leaking again.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Thursday, August 28, 2003 at 07:25:33 (EDT)
I recently found a leak coming from under my refridgerator, and I wondered if it could be the copper coil. How do I find out? Thanks! C.
Charles Danziger
New York, NY USA - Wednesday, August 27, 2003 at 10:36:24 (EDT)
HEY, Kathy! Haha: you asked a similar question last year, about the cracking ceiling in your Livingroom. I guess it boils down to a question of skill, and available time and money. If you can afford to hire a professional to assess the problem then that would be the best scenario. Drywalling over old crackling lathe and plaster surfaces will most certainly give you the best and smoothest new surface, and often is LESS time consuming than painstakenly skim-coating the entire, crackling ceiling multiple times.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Saturday, August 16, 2003 at 09:50:57 (EDT)
Good morning! How do you know if you real structural work is needed for a ceiling vs. giving it a fresh cover of sheetrock? The ceiling in my living room shows a lot of seams from the material underneath (plaster? it was built in 1913) and lots of peeling, but I'm not sure if it's okay to just cover it with sheetrock. What do you think?
Kathy
Somersworth, NH USA - Thursday, August 14, 2003 at 07:41:43 (EDT)
I addressed this in GRAND FINISHES FOR CARPENTRY, on page 80. You can shave down the wall / area of the drywall where it juts out, to make the surface (where the new casing will sit) flush to the jam. Use a drywall grate (looks like a little block plane and cheese grater) along with a utility knife to shave the marked area down. A utility knife will work ok by itself, only take a bit longer. Does this help?
Matt
New York, NY USA - Sunday, July 13, 2003 at 10:38:48 (EDT)
Hi there. I am about to install trim around doors and windows in addition. It turns out that some of the drywall that is adjacent to the windows sits "above" the depth of the jamb. How should I deal with this problem prior to trim installation? Thanks.
A. Davis
Indiana, PA USA - Friday, July 11, 2003 at 10:52:03 (EDT)
Oil (alkyd) based primer is always good, because it will not cause the thin layer of the drywall paper to bubble up (like a water0based primer would). Just be sure to use a respirator and latex gloves. Once dry, then joint compound to give the surfaces a uniformity is a great idea, followed by another light skim-coat of the compound and/or sanding. Let dry and then primer again, just over the repaired spots. THis should give you a nice surface to accept any kind of paint. Does that help? Let us know.
Matt
NewYork, NY USA - Sunday, July 06, 2003 at 17:40:08 (EDT)
We removed 30 yr old wallpaper from kitchen walls. Underneath we found some of the walls were 1840 plaster; some were old sheetrock/drywall. We want to paint the kitchen, but the problem arises from the fact that the old brown paper lining of the drywall is still there and almost intact. Since there were some water stains, we bought the Pittsburgh Seal Grip interior/exterior Synthetic Stain Blocking Primer to put over the brown backing paper. Some have recommended an oil based primer. We are putting compound on the plaster sections and do not know how to treat the drywall.Prime then paint? Pittsburgh Synthetic Stain Blocking Primer or an oil primer? Put compound over the primed drywall to give a uniform look to all the walls?
Rosario Ferreri
Willington, CT USA - Saturday, July 05, 2003 at 09:56:04 (EDT)
I removed some wallpaper once and I'll bet there was no primer underneath there, either, because it was a real pain: just like you described! The backing from the wallpaper pulled off the drywall paper layer or at least some of it. What was left was thin layers of paper everywhere. I tried sanding (that only made it worse) and then priming over (that caused bubbles in the paper). I finally had to drywall OVER it! What a job!
Ralph
Brooklyn, NY USA - Tuesday, June 24, 2003 at 06:44:56 (EDT)
PLEASE prime the walls, Barbara! At the very least with a latex primer, although an oil-based one would be best. You want a really good seal and sound surface for the wall paper and glue to go on. No primer, and you may encounter bubbles as you go along which won't go back down and create an awful look. Also you are condemning the future job of removing that paper someday, as pulling it off will also pull off the paper sheeting on the drywall and make it incredibly difficult to repair. A water-based (latex) primer will be ok so long as it has plenty of time to dry before the paper starts to go up (at least 48 hours) or you will encounter bubbles.. and possibly pull off the primer coat should you try to adjust a strip as you're hanging it. Oil-based (alkyd) is the best: This will create a good bond on the wall and give you a sound surface to put up the new paper. GOOD LUCK!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Saturday, May 24, 2003 at 08:30:55 (EDT)
We just put a new room in above our garage and the walls are drywall. They haven't been primed yet but I'm thinking of wallpaper. Do I have to do anything to the walls before I put up wallpaper? I'm kind of lazy.
Barbara S.
Des Moines, IA USA - Friday, May 23, 2003 at 06:30:21 (EDT)
Mike: I'm assuming that whoever framed out the doors did a somewhat plumb job! Depending upon the size of the opening you can either shim/set in a pre-hung door (jam, hinged door, and doorstop molding are all ready to go) or you can set in the new jam on your own and customize the size. Most lumber yards that carry interior moldings will have door jam strips. Get yourself some of this material as well as a doorstop molding and some shims. With a level, hammer, saw, 2 1/2" and 1 1/2" nails you can put it in yourself, finishing the doorway for whatever door you'd like to hang. GRAND FINISHES FOR CARPENTRY goes into detail in Chapter 4 about how to go about doing this... I think I remember getting a letter from you before, and that you indeed have the book! Good luck!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Tuesday, May 06, 2003 at 19:49:05 (EDT)
Matt: I am finishing a new room with drywall and now want to finish the doorway/doorframes leading into the two closets. The doorways are now rough -- drywall nailed to the 2X4 studs. How do I finish the doorframe and what materials do I use? Thanks, Mike
Mike
windham , nh USA - Tuesday, May 06, 2003 at 09:47:53 (EDT)
Thanks, for the support regarding my advice on getting mirrors off the wall. After re-reading it I realized that though I didn't say it, wearing GOGGLES is a given as well as donning a sturdy pair of work gloves.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Thursday, May 01, 2003 at 10:50:56 (EDT)
What a terrific web site! As a couple of professionals in the glass/mirror industry, we were very impressed with your tips on removing mirrors glued to the walls. It's one of our most frequently asked questions and your instructions hit it right on the nose! Great job!
Lynne & Bill
Amherst, NH USA - Wednesday, April 30, 2003 at 20:30:32 (EDT)
I tried re-seating my toilet. It worked! Thanks!
Humphrey
San Francisco, CA USA - Tuesday, April 29, 2003 at 16:36:57 (EDT)
Great site! Je t'aime!
Bebe
Paris, France - Tuesday, April 29, 2003 at 16:30:18 (EDT)
Whoa, Jeff! Chances are it won't come off in one piece. Mirror is adhered to the wall with black balls of mastic, placed on the back and then flattened (when the mirror is put in place). The stuff creates a great bond, making it difficult to take off once up. HOWEVER. If you can get a rigid putty knife under the edges, work around it, trying to pry it loose, a little here, then keep moving around the perimeter. Often you'll be able to pry the mirror off the wall because you'll end up taking the top sheet of paper from the drywall (where the mastic has stuck). GOOD LUCK: let me know what happens!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Tuesday, March 18, 2003 at 08:41:15 (EST)
How do I remove a large (4X6)plate glass mirror from drywall?
Jeff
Phoenix , AZ USA - Sunday, March 16, 2003 at 18:55:21 (EST)
i love the site but you guys in west downn muguguy.....sepuaka bikooooooooo
Chima
lagos, nigeria - Friday, March 14, 2003 at 06:05:28 (EST)
Just a note of thanks for your web site, I have a bunch of holes in my wall, the size of a dart. (My 11 year old son has NO IDEA how they got there. Anyways, I am painting the family room and needed some help on how to repair, and sure enough the answer to my prayers YOU. Thanks Again! Kemah
Kemah
Erving , MA USA - Wednesday, February 26, 2003 at 15:24:47 (EST)
Chuck, Painting over the old kitchen cabinets is a great way to give the room a new look for very little money! We do it for Clients all the time and I addressed this project in the last chapter of my first book, "Grand Finishes for Walls and Floors". As long as the surfaces are cleaned (and then dry) thoroughly first, a good oil-based primer will adhere well to a varnished wood surface. Benjamin Moore's alkyd (today's synthetic version of the old oil-based) finish paints, like Satin Impervo (low luster finish) or Gloss will work well as both the primer AND finish coat(s) to seal old varnish cabinets well. Be sure to let them dry/cure well after finsishing and they will hold up wonderfully under future use.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Friday, February 07, 2003 at 10:48:02 (EST)
I am considering painting my varnished hardwood kitchen cabinets. I would like your recommendation on preperation, products for stain blocking, oil or latex paint and the manufacturers of high quaility Hi-gloss finishes with a hard finish for durability.
chuck
concord, nc USA - Thursday, February 06, 2003 at 12:34:52 (EST)
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