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Oh Ralph! The added step of laying a bead of construction adhesive along the top and bottom flat of the profile (that will rest on the ceiling and wall surface) ensures that settlement/etc. won't cause cracks down the road. :-)
Matt
New York, NY USA - Friday, January 10, 2003 at 13:54:15 (EST)
HAPPY NEW YEAR! I didn't use an adhesive. But I nailed it pretty good. I think I got into all the studs.
Ralph
Brooklyn, NY USA - Wednesday, January 01, 2003 at 10:28:44 (EST)
Ralph, did you use adhesive to affix the crown, or just nails? How big is the molding?
Mike
Austin, TX USA - Friday, December 13, 2002 at 06:11:36 (EST)
I put in a crown molding myself and it looks pretty good. But I keep getting a hairline crack where the wood touches the ceiling. I've touched it up with paint, but it reappears all along the ceiling a couple of weeks later. ???
Ralph
Brooklyn, NY USA - Wednesday, December 11, 2002 at 06:08:11 (EST)
Sol, is the fishtank glass or plexi-glass? If glass, then maybe you can scrape the mylar off using a couple of single-edge razor blades. If it is plexi-glass then you're stuck with what the factory has put on the back.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Sunday, November 03, 2002 at 08:19:36 (EST)
Matt- I am trying to help a friend remove the mirror coating from a fish tank is there anything I can use or am I stuck with the mirror? Thanks sol
sol
USA - Wednesday, October 30, 2002 at 14:06:05 (EST)
Hey, I live in Brooklyn, too. Check out Matt's first book GRAND FINISHES FOR WALLS AND FLOORS: I don't know where you can get it now (MATT?) but it was the first book of his I got and I did my floors by following the steps in it. It was pretty easy, and good descriptions: I rented the machines at a place here in Bensonhurst.
Joe
Brooklyn, NY USA - Tuesday, October 29, 2002 at 19:32:09 (EST)
HEllo, I am new here and am moving into a new (for me) but very old apartment. Thefloors are painted and there is one cement patch in the kitchen (possibly under the wood- I have not gotten to go back and look yet). I am on a tight budget and am hoping to sand and polyurethane the floors or stain them. Any advice, am I tacking too big of a project, and if so, does anyone know any reasonable places tat does this on Brooklyn. Also, another project.... there is two feet of space above the ceiling. They are those boards hung by wire and there is beautiful crown molding hiding underneath... we would like to take it down...any advice..Thank you!!!
Jeanine
New York, NY USA - Friday, October 25, 2002 at 12:12:13 (EDT)
Marilou, WOW: first off, congratulations on getting the mirrors off the wall. They are installed with balls of mastic, placed on the wall. When the mirror panels are put in place the balls are sandwiched/flattened in place and the adhesive in them along with the pressure of the two surfaces (wall and backside of mirror) creates a very strong bond. So what you're looking at are the dried remnants of the mastic left on the wall. Sanding is usually pretty futile, especially once the black mastic has hardened. USE A RIGID PUTTY KNIFE to scrape off what's left... the raised areas where the adhesive is left. Rigid is the key, as a flexible putty knife will leave you frustrated and won't scrape the stuff off as well. You will end up taking some of the wall off in those areas, but that's okay. Afterwards, use a large knife (10-12") and smooth joint compound over the damaged areas on the wall. Check out the repair steps on this website. Float two, maybe three coats (let dry between), and then sand, prime, and finish wall how you'd like. Let me know how it turns out!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Wednesday, October 16, 2002 at 09:42:21 (EDT)
We successfully took down mirrors from an entire living room wall. But now, the wall has these dried black tar-like glue circles. We've sanded most of it out but still have some on the wall. Is there a solvent to take them out? Any advice will be appreciated!
Marilou
USA - Tuesday, October 15, 2002 at 20:18:22 (EDT)
HAHA, Brodi! The same thing happened to me when I was using an alkyd based paint on my kitchen cabinet doors. Little black gnats kept landing on the surface before it dried, and so I had to pick them off and then re-do the surface! It was very frustrating. I finally made sure the windows and doors were closed and wouldn't let my kids come in for a few hours until the paint was somewhat dry... to prevent more flies from getting in!
Lynn M.
Stamford, CT USA - Tuesday, October 08, 2002 at 08:15:40 (EDT)
I'm almost finished painted my livingroom. The oil-based paint I'm using on the woodwork seems to attract these little flies (gnats) that settle on the wet paint and stick to it! Is this just a California thing???
Brodi
Alameda, CA USA - Wednesday, October 02, 2002 at 07:35:35 (EDT)
Mary, are you just using a single nail (without a picture hook)? That could be a problem, although hanging anything on crumbly plaster walls is always a problem. The whole wall could be like that or maybe just the spot you'd like the hook to hang. Hmmm. I just put up a really big, heavy mirror for a Client and was worried about securing it well. THe mirror is 34" wide so I cut a piece of 1"x3" wood to 33" and nailed it level on the wall with the center of the wood strip being where the back/center of the mirror was to go. I made sure that the strip was nailed into the studs (I located them ahead with a studfinder). Then the picture hook can be nailed into the wood. In this case I used one that said it could hold up to 150 lbs, just to be safe. If you go ahead with a mirror, let me know what happens.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Tuesday, September 10, 2002 at 16:32:02 (EDT)
What is the best way to hang a picture on a plaster wall? Every nail I sink cracks out a wedge of plaster. Even masking tape over the site before hammering doesn't seem to work! Now I need to hang a mirror and I'm scared my house will fall down!
mary
winston-salem, nc USA - Monday, September 09, 2002 at 00:10:59 (EDT)
Kacy, sealing the mahogany is a good idea, as unsealed exterior wood WILL turn grayish over time. Also, the sealing (whether it's stain and/or poly-coating) will help it last and avoid warping and rotting.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Wednesday, August 21, 2002 at 07:54:35 (EDT)
Rita, the only problem with using ONLY adhesive to fasten the new molding to the cement wall is that it (the molding) may not sit perfectly flat against the wall. Try using a couple of masonly nails along each length of boards, along with the adhesive. Be sure to drill a pilot hole through the molding wherever you plan to drive a nail through (to avoid splitting the wood). It may only require one or two nails per board, to hold it firmly against the wall, as the adhesive (use a construction adhesive, like Liquid Nails). Follow with a latex caulk to fill any crevices left where the molding meets the wall. GOOD LUCK.
Matt
New, NY USA - Tuesday, August 20, 2002 at 19:35:14 (EDT)
Hi I need to install base molding to a cement wall to finish a room. Can I just use adhesive to stick it to the wall?
Rita
Greendale, WI USA - Sunday, August 18, 2002 at 15:06:18 (EDT)
Hi I need to install base molding to a cement wall to finish a room. Can I just use adhesive to stick it to the wall?
Rita
Greendale, WI USA - Sunday, August 18, 2002 at 15:06:06 (EDT)
Thanks for the advice about the porch floor, Matt! The reason I had considered stain below the sealer is that I don't want the wood to turn gray, and I wasn't sure whether or not that would happen to unstained mahogany. We'll let you know how it turns out!
Kacy
Berwick, ME USA - Wednesday, August 14, 2002 at 21:08:08 (EDT)
Christine, you may be able to find a testing KIT for lead at your local paint store. Or ask them if they can suggest where you could bring a paint sample to test for the presence of lead, as there are profit and not-for-profit government agencies in most municipalities.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Tuesday, August 13, 2002 at 06:18:47 (EDT)
Kacy, the new deck sounds great! You can stain AND polyurethane, polyurethane only, OR urethane (water-based sealer, which doesn't add the amber tint to the wood). The first coat of any of these will seal the wood, so go with whatever your preference is for how you'd like it to look. Mahogany is a beautiful wood in it's own right and offers a nice color without stains.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Tuesday, August 13, 2002 at 06:13:51 (EDT)
For the run-of-the-mill weekend warrior, how can you tell whether or not the paint you're working on (i.e. scraping, sanding, recoating) is lead-based?
Christine
Dover, NH USA - Monday, August 12, 2002 at 19:33:10 (EDT)
I'm having my front porch replaced, and I'm trying to decide on a finish for the new flooring that's being installed. It is tongue & groove mahogany, so I don't really want to paint it. Can I stain it AND seal it, or does it have to be one or the other? I'm looking for a low maintenance solution, but I want it to look great. Thanks!
Kacy
Berwick, ME USA - Monday, August 12, 2002 at 19:25:09 (EDT)
Yeah, water-based is easier to work with but an oil-based paint leaves a more attractive (no brush stroke marks) and durable finish.
Brodi
Alameda, CA USA - Thursday, July 18, 2002 at 06:24:05 (EDT)
I like water-base paint better because there is no smell and also it always is easier to clean up afterwards (just warm water and soap!)
Mike
Syosset, NY USA - Tuesday, July 16, 2002 at 06:53:27 (EDT)
I saw the item about the 3M contest and the sanding sponge they're putting out. I don't know how much this has to do with that, but any one have any idea whether oil paints really are better to use than latex?
Hank
Philadelphia, PA USA - Saturday, July 06, 2002 at 08:31:21 (EDT)
Sarah, it would take a bit of "home improvement" surgery, but it could be done. The Anaglypta covering can't be removed by itself, but if you can somehow remove an intact portion (enough to be re-used at the water-damaged spot) with some backing, then you may have some success. By backing, I'm assuming that the wall skin isn't drywall but plaster over lathe? You may be able to remove the plaster-and-Anaglypta intact from the lathe of the area taken out. If so, then it can be set it place with a combination of some kind of home-made adhesive (like fast-dry plaster and thinset cement)in the area that's been readied for it. As as an alternative, have you looked for the pattern of Anaglypta to replace it? There are lots of old-styles available: I did just that when I did a bit of adding on to an existing old Victorian in San Francisco a few years back. Check on line under "embossed wallcovering". Good luck: let us know how it turns out.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Thursday, May 30, 2002 at 06:24:18 (EDT)
We have anaglypta on the dining room walls in our 1912 home. It is water damaged in one corner. We are removing part of a wall between the kitchen and dining room and are wondering if there is a way to remove and reuse the anaglypta from the wall we are removing to patch the water damage.
Sarah
Cincinnati, OH USA - Monday, May 27, 2002 at 16:30:33 (EDT)
Brodi, If the walls are nice and smooth (a light hand sanding) and clean (Spic n' Span) then you can hang over a painted surface. If you had to do any repair, or it's new drywall, or the walls just look dry, a nice coat of an oil-based primer will be a great undercoat for any wallpaper, expecially a heavy vinyl. As for adhesive, get a redi-mix from the paint store: it will say on the container "for heavy duty vinyls". Good luck!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Wednesday, May 08, 2002 at 18:42:49 (EDT)
I'm putting some heavy vinyl wallpaper up in the bathroom. How should I prep the walls? What sort of glue should I use?
Brodi
Alameda, CA USA - Friday, May 03, 2002 at 18:07:20 (EDT)
I have all three of Matt's books and look forward to his next one. I read them cover to cover and surprise my husband with my vast knowledge of painting and home repair! Thanks Matt!
Patsy Wiegelman
Hooksett, NH USA - Monday, April 01, 2002 at 19:21:36 (EST)
Paint over wallpaper? I HATE doing it, but I see it all the time, and it could be okay. The worst that could happen is that it could start to bubble up once the paint is applied... that only happened to us once (a few years back where the Client balked at the cost of removal of the paper first) and it was a real pain, because then we had to remove the wallpaper WITH the paint on it! That probably won't happen with a vinyl and your description sounds like it is a thick vinyl. Prime first, before the color. Good luck: let us know how it turns out!!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Friday, March 29, 2002 at 17:45:27 (EST)
Is it EVER okay to paint over wallpaper (other than the textured types that are made for that purpose)? The walls in one of my rooms has an old wallpaper that's in pretty good shape (no corners coming up, and the seams basically in tact). It's got a raised design on it, thought it's not the type made for painting; I think the design might look nice with paint over it (and who wants to remove wallpaper if you don't have to?). Thanks!
KC
Brentwood, NH USA - Thursday, March 28, 2002 at 19:06:08 (EST)
Thanks Matt - that's exactly what we did, and it came out great!!!
Julie
Newmarket, NH USA - Tuesday, March 26, 2002 at 16:02:48 (EST)
Julie, did you finish with just one coat of the 2-in-one stain/poly coat? Either way, if it feels rough, you can easily recoat it, but first prep it properly. Using 120grit sandpaper, go over the furniture completely, smoothing down the finish (first coats of any finish on wood always bring the grain up somewhat). The conditioner, by the way, was a good choice... most people skip it, however it helps the wood to accept a more uniform stain coat. Now (and this is important) use a tackcloth to clean all dust particles off the wood... now re-coat with the 2-in-one or just a plain polyurethane. Repeat this after the coat is dry, and you should be happier with the results. These 2-in-one products work fine: the only reason I prefer staining seperately and then polyurethaning is because you have more control over the amount of stain that gets absorbed into the wood when using the product by itself. The combined product takes that freedom away, but will still give good results as far as protection for the wood. Good luck: let us know how it turns out!
Matt
New York, NY USA - Saturday, March 16, 2002 at 06:46:10 (EST)
We recently bought a couple of pieces of unfinished birch furniture, and finished them with a wood conditioner, then a stain/poly 2-in-1 product. We really aren't thrilled with the results. They look ok, just not as nice as we had hoped. The finish is not as smooth as I think it should be. Would you recommend going with a separate stain and poly next time? Or skipping the conditioner?
Julie
Newmarket, NH USA - Friday, March 15, 2002 at 19:48:17 (EST)
Kathy, how much water damage are you talking about... in other words, is the ceiling falling in? sagging in places? Or just peeling badly? Each one would suggest a different response/remedy, though replacing a ceiling, at least the whole thing, is usually a last-ditch effort, unless you have endless finances. If minimal damage, like peeling and discoloration, then scraping, patching, sanding,and then priming with a shellac or water-stain killing solvent should do the trick, followed by the repainting. If its sagging it probably needs to be re-screwed into the ceiling joists cuz it separated from them when getting wet. Sometimes it's easy to do although usually the ceiling (which may have disintigrated somewhat from the water) can be stubborn and not take new screws. If we can't repair with simple patching, it's usual that we replace just a small part of the ceiling by carefully pulling away the damage, securing what's left back to the joists, and patching with drywall, followed by taping, plastering, sanding, priming. Rarely, but it may happen, the solution could be to put a thin layer of drywall (1/4" for instance) over the existing... that would solve a ceiling that may not have sagged terribly but basically looks awful everywhere because of extensive cracking, peeling. GOOD LUCK!
Matt Nikitas
New York, NY USA - Monday, March 11, 2002 at 07:47:24 (EST)
How do you know when you need to REPLACE a ceiling that has water damage v. just covering it up with new material? I've scoured all three of your books (very helpful!) but haven't found anything yet about this issue. Thanks!
Kathy
Somersworth, NH USA - Sunday, March 10, 2002 at 16:04:01 (EST)
If the mirror was installed properly then the mirror mastic (black adhesive) gets put on the wall where the mirror is to be placed, in two inch blobs spaced 6-8" apart. The mirror is placed on the wall and pressed in place: this flattens out the blobs somewhat and also creates an incredible bond. I put one in place once but then had to take it back off and reposition it.. that was even really difficult. And I have never had any luck myself in getting a mirror off the wall once it's been sitting there for a couple of months. Oh, well.
Matt Nikitas
New York, NY USA - Sunday, March 03, 2002 at 11:22:29 (EST)
I have tried two different times to get mirrors off the wall and no luck either time. That black glue on the back is like some heavy-duty cement and holds the mirror really well to the wall. I asked at Home Depot and was told that there is no solvent to dissolve this glue. BEsides, how could you get it behind the mirror, anyway, even if there was something?
Tim Josephson
Deluth, USA - Sunday, March 03, 2002 at 11:17:51 (EST)
When I left my last apartment I had wanted to take three mirrors with me. One of them (the smaller one) 24" x 36" came off in one piece... I slowly and carefully wedged a large putty knife between the wall and the mirror, to break the seal of the mirror adhesive that held it to the wall. The other two cracked, though when I tried to do the same thing. It was a real pain!
Mike
Brooklyn, NY USA - Saturday, March 02, 2002 at 11:31:36 (EST)
Anybody have any ideas about how to remove a wall mirror in one piece?
Susan
Austin, TX USA - Thursday, February 28, 2002 at 13:42:27 (EST)
Laura, I'm not sure if I fully understand your question. The angle where the wall meets the floor is not 90 degrees? Everywhere, or just in one spot? Either way, I talked about various problems you might encounter with base molding in my GRAND FINISHES FOR CARPENTRY book pages 36 - 40. Rather than sand, try using a block plane on the bottom of the molding to make it contour to the floor a little better... it might be a bit easier to work with and give you more customized results. Or it could be that your base molding needs a shoe trim to finish it off and close any gaps at the floor. We did a job in CA a few years back where the client did not want any kind of shoe molding and yet there were many many gaps throughout that we opted against trying to remedy by block planing the bottom of the base to fit snugly. Once it was installed I blue-taped the floor all around the room, slipping it just under the base. Then we caulked the cracks, smoothing the caulk with a wet sponge and putty knife. Once it was dry we primed and painted, and once that was dry removed the tape by caerefully running a sharp razor blade first to separate the blue tape that was exposed from what might be under the base (other wise just pulling it off would have pulled the caulk out). The result was a clean line where the base met the floor with no cracks showing. Let me know if that helps.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Tuesday, February 19, 2002 at 20:06:52 (EST)
Re: coped joints when installing baseboards... are there any tricks when it the wall of the first board is not a 90 degree angle ( the angle from the floor following up the wall , i.e. NOT the angle to the joining wall ). I have been able to do perfect test pieces, but this has been a big challange that is not addressed in too many books. I follow the conventional directions in making the coped joint but then end up with a 1/4" gap at the bottom end of my baseboard. When I try to sand/file/saw down just this bottom section I end up closing the gap, but the contour of the molding ends up pretty bad. I am attempting another try today again and might end up using a lot of caulk! But I thought this might be a good issue for you to address in the forum or in a book sometime. For now I am doing a small room, but would like to attempt the basement someday. I should mention that I am using a really great manual miter box and do not own or want to own a power miter saw at this point. Thanks!
Laura Erskine
Bellevue, WA USA - Wednesday, February 13, 2002 at 11:21:12 (EST)
I do furniture refinishing as well as actually building some pieces too, sometimes. Matt, the Grand Finishes for Molding helped me out: putting in a crown molding! I thought I knew it all about woodworking but never had put in a crown and tried on my own at first. "Upside-down and backwards" in the miter saw... jeese; it all became clear to me at last!! HAhahaha thank!
Jerry
Indianapolis, IN USA - Thursday, January 24, 2002 at 11:31:33 (EST)
Did you use a construction adhesive on the back of the molding before putting it in place? I noticed that Matt mentioned it in his book. I've put up crown three times and found that problem once: I think I was unable to get the nails going through the crown up into the ceiling to hold onto anything except plaster. And since I hadn't used any kind of glue it settled a month later, showing cracks.
Pat
Quincy, MA USA - Wednesday, December 19, 2001 at 09:59:34 (EST)
I installed some crown molding last year and now I noticed that there are a few hairline cracks here and there where the molding touches the ceiling. Any ideas why this happened? I used a good caulking for the prep work and painted with an oil-based paint. Thanks.
Ed
Denver, CO USA - Monday, December 17, 2001 at 15:34:41 (EST)
Carol, The raised wallcovering, usually referred to as Anaglypta (the name of the company that manufactures most of the available stuff in this country) is a really nice look: I saw a lot of it in Victorian homes in San Francisco. If it hadn't been painted over removing it wouldn't be too much of a problem, although if it was installed directly over the drywall with no priming at all then it might be difficult to get off without taking off the drywall's paper surface along with the embossed wallcovering. If you were looking for a change, namely to return the walls to their original flat surface then I would first try a small area with some of the blue gel wallpaper remover that's available in the home stores. Follow the directions and see how that works. It may do the job. If not then your next bet would be to go with a wallpaper steamer that can be rented for about $25 a day. I've used these for really tenacious papers or multiple-layer wallcoverings (when paper was installed over paper, maybe up to 3 oe four times!) and it's pretty good. Once everything's off then your walls may need some repair and resurfacing with wallboard compound and a large knife... sanding, then priming, and then the new paint. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
Matt
New York, NY USA - Monday, November 19, 2001 at 12:17:40 (EST)
I have an English anaglypton wallpaper on the walls in my living/dining room. The workman who put it up said to me, I hope you never want to take this off(!)...he had installed it over wallboard. What if I do want a change? The anaglypton is textured with a raised pattern. It comes in a neutral beigy color and is supposed to be painted over....which I had done at the time...this was over 10 years ago. I still like the paper, but what if I DO want a change? Any ideas? Have you worked with this type of paper? Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanx, CB
Carole Baker
Hudson, , NH USA - Sunday, November 18, 2001 at 21:20:06 (EST)
I just saw you on the morning NBC news here in Chicago talking about winterizing your home to save on energy bills. Very informative: I'm going to try the waterproof sealant on the windows. Thanks.
Josh
Chicago, USA - Friday, November 16, 2001 at 16:27:47 (EST)
Tim, painting over tile is not ideal, however you really can paint over any surface as long as it's prepped well and you get the right product for the job. First clean the tile surface with something with TSP (trisodium phosphate) in it: like Spic N/ Span, for instance. This will degrease it and also dullen the surface, making it ready to accept the coat of paint. Though I don't like alkyd-based (oil) or epoxy-based solvents (because of the release of toxic stuff - Volatile Organic Compounds - while it's drying) a heavy duty paint like this would give you the most successful coating over something like tile. If it's wall tile then look for an alkyd-based paint in the finish and color that you want. No priming: just multiple coats of the finish paint. If it's a floor tile then look for an epoxy-reinforced porch/floor paint. Again it shouldn't need priming: the first coat will be a good primer. Follow the directions for the product that you've chosen... good luck: let us know how it turns out.
Matt
New York, USA - Monday, November 12, 2001 at 12:05:26 (EST)
How do you paint over tile and get it to stay. Is there any finish or paint that can accomplish this?
Tim Radigan
WASHINGTON, DC USA - Monday, November 12, 2001 at 11:11:38 (EST)
CLEO, don't worry about water on the surface of a foil wallcovering. Even papers can take a bit of washing, although the real fine stuff (like hand-prints or expensive designer papers) may fade with too much wiping, so check with the installation instructions or manufacturer. BRIAN, every plumber I've ever worked with has cursed an old garbage disposal. Actually, most don't like them at all, new or old. The last plumber who did most of our jobs in SF told me that they were all kind of a waste of money and prone to leaking, as the contraption itself is heavy and supposed to be supported and leak-free under the sink hanging off the trap pretty much. Either way, figure on replacing it with a new one: a good one can be found at Home Depot's for about $140. Good luck.
Matt
New York, USA - Sunday, November 11, 2001 at 18:50:29 (EST)
Can I get water on the front of a foil wallpaper?
Cleo
Washington, DC, USA - Friday, November 09, 2001 at 23:06:09 (EST)
I'm redoing the kitchen counters in my home. I'm planning to put in new fixtures, since the old ones look kind of rusty. Do you think I sh ould replace the garbage disposal also?
Brian
Miam Beach, FL USA - Friday, November 09, 2001 at 23:05:31 (EST)
I am finally able to grasp the concept of installing crown molding and getting the miter angles right!! Thanks.. I'll let you know how the Livingroom turns out.
Devlin
New York City, NY USA - Friday, November 09, 2001 at 23:04:36 (EST)
I got a lot of great ideas from your Walls & Floors book. I can't wait to try them.
Rochelle
Long Island, NY USA - Friday, November 09, 2001 at 23:03:34 (EST)
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