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MATERIALS CHECKLIST |
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Crescent wrench |
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Wax toilet ring |
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Small pail/bucket |
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Rag |
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Putty knife |
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Teflon (plumber's) tape |
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Sponge |
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Level (at least 24" long) |
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Shims |
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Utility knife |
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Tub/tile latex caulk |
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Large piece of cardboard |
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Old rag |
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Latex gloves |
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Pair of replacement closet bolts (just in case) |
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Small plumber's hacksaw (in case you replace the bolts) |
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Monkey wrench (if you're replacing the connector) |
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This project is for a typical bowl/tank combination. They are already attached to each other and so when you remove it, it comes in one piece. You could also follow these instructions for a one-piece, "low-boy" toilet. I can't stress enough, though: if you're at all hesitant at this point to fiddle with the water source, (or perhaps the plumbing connections are very old ) then by all means, call a plumber in to do it for you. It has happened, on occasion, where the connection at the shut-off is all rusty and even once we turn it off it still drips a bit once the valve has been taken off. Okay, here we go.
- SHUT OFF THE WATER SOURCE. You'll find the valve under and behind the toilet tank on the wall. It should be all the way open now (turned completely counter-clockwise), so turn it clockwise all the way tight to turn the water off at the valve. Also, set up the piece of cardboard close-by where you'll be able to put down the removed toilet to install the new seal.
- EMPTY ALL THE WATER FROM THE TANK. Flush the toilet once, then twice... to get all the water you can out of the tank and bowl. Use the sponge to get all the remaining water out of the tank and any at the bottom of the bowl.
- UNHOOK THE CONNECTOR. It should unscrew by turning it counter-clockwise. Keep the rag and sponge near-by, as there will be some water residue in the connector. If water is still dripping out then tighten the valve until it stops.
NOTE: If it is an old and rusty and/or a rigid connection you may want to replace it. If this is the case then unscrew it from the bottom of the tank. Since there are several size openings — both at the tank end and the water source end — it'll be easiest if you bring the old connection to the hardware store so you can replace one with the correct sized nuts. Get one the same length or longer.
- UNSCREW THE CLOSET BOLTS. There should be two of them: one on either side of the base at the floor, and they most probably will be covered with some matching-decorative cap that should just pop off. Counter-clockwise and take the bolts off the screws.
- LIFT THE TOILET UP AND CARRY IT TO WHERE YOU LAID THE PIECE OF CARDBOARD. Turn it on it's side and, with your friend's help steadying the whole thing, remove the remnants of the old wax ring with the putty knife. YUCK... it's gooey and usually kind of gross-looking. You probably won't see a plumber wearing latex gloves (don yours now) but then again, have you ever looked at the fingernails and cuticles of a plumber? Also go and clean any remaining residue left around the waste on the floor. Also, if you decided to replace the closet bolts, set them in place in the holes in the flange where the old ones were, so that the threaded ends point straight up. Yes, they look too long but don't worry; you're going to cut them later.
- REPLACE THE WAX RING. Put the new one in place around the opening at the bottom of the toilet and push it down just a bit so it holds when you carry the toilet over to it's place. If you've replaced the connector valve then screw it in place at the underside of the tank (where you took the old one off). Unless it says otherwise wrap a bit of Teflon tape around the threads of the connector and screw the large nut around it: tighten by hand and then just a bit more with the Monkey wrench.
- RESET THE TOILET. Both of you carry it into place so that the hole in the bottom of the toilet and the hole (flange) in the floor line up. Now if you one of you can hold it there the other can get down low and guide it into place so that the holes in the base of the toilet will sit right over the closet bolts (which are sitting in place pointing straight up). Lift the seat up and place the level on the bowl. Now squish the toilet down in place, checking to be sure the bolts are sticking straight up and that the bowl is level from side to side and front to back. If you have to push a shim or two under one part of the base to get to that perfectly level point and ensure that there is no rocking, then do that now. Cut off the excess wood so any shims don't protrude from underneath the toilet.
- TIGHTEN THE NUT AROUND THE CLOSET BOLTS. Once it's hand-tight then use the crescent wrench and tighten each side a little a time, first one side then the next, so that you're tightening them both together. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN (or you'll crack the base of the bowl), just get nuts so that they are snug. Now, if you replaced the bolts you'll probably have excess bolt sticking up past the nuts. You can cut them easily with the plumber's hacksaw... cut through 2/3 of the way then bend it to break it off.
- RE-CONNECT THE CONNECTOR. Unless it specifies otherwise (a compressed copper fitting doesn't need any, for instance) wrap a bit of Teflon tape around the threads of the male portion of the connection and then screw it into the valve. Hand-tighten and then just a bit with the crescent wrench. Turn the water back on: clock-wise, all the way. If there is any water leaking then tighten it a bit more until it stops.
- LASTLY CAULK AROUND THE BASE. If you had to use a shim then slice it/them off now by scoring the wood multiple times so that it will break just under the base. Now clean/dry the floor around the newly sealed toilet and run a nice, thick bead of the tub/tile latex caulk around the base where it sits on the floor: be sure there are no air-holes or gaps, and then wipe the excess away clean with the wet sponge.
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Set the toilet in place over the flange and closet bolts.
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Lift the seat up and place a level on the rim to check how it sits.
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